A familiar aroma wafted through the Believer Meats test kitchen earlier this year as Research and Development Chef Andres Voloschin flipped sizzling strips of chicken conjured from cells.
“We are addicted to meat as a species. It’s part of our evolution. It’s part of our culture,” said Believer founder Yaakov Nahmias, whose country, Israel, is an industry hub along with California and Singapore. But “we thought about quantity rather than the environment, rather than sustainability.”
Companies making so-called “cultivated,” or “cultured” meat, which is also popularly known as “lab-grown” meat, are trying to scale up quickly — partnering with traditional meat companies, drawing more and more investors and breaking ground on new production facilities in the U.S. and elsewhere.
Wide adoption of meat from cells is nowhere near assured, however. This meat is expensive to make. There are scientific challenges, such as learning how to mimic the complex structure of steak. Government regulation is another obstacle. Only Singapore and the U.S. allow sales of cultivated meat.
And while many people who have tried it say they like it, others find the idea distasteful. A recent poll from The Associated Press-NORC Center for Public Affairs Research found that half of adults in the meat-hungry U.S. would be unlikely to try it. A majority of those who said they wouldn’t said “it just sounds weird.”
Even Nahmias’ 10-year-old son Oren says he will only eat traditional meat. “I feel bad” for the animals, he said, “but they are yummy!”
The science behind this new meat comes from the medical world. Nahmias, a bioengineer, launched his company after going to lunch with a Tyson Foods executive at a conference and scribbling his method for making cultivated meat on a napkin.
Other companies are pursuing cultivated beef anyway. It’s the focus of Believer’s Rehovot-based competitor Aleph Farms, where a scientist has scribbled a cow’s face on a piece of lab equipment. The cell line for their product started with a fertilized egg from a Black Angus cow named Lucy living on a California farm.
Producing meat this way could also dramatically reduce the impact of meat on the environment because it would reduce the need for land for the animals and for feed. Multiple studies show that traditional livestock production is responsible for about 10% to 20% of greenhouse gas emissions.
“The most important thing is that this field move forward and start reducing the destruction to our environment associated with current animal agriculture techniques,” said Glenn Gaudette, a biomedical engineering specialist at Boston College.
But transforming the ecosystem is a distant vision. At this point companies are still perfecting their products.
Scientists and industry experts say cultivated meats have a way to go before they’re indistinguishable from conventional meats, especially when it comes to the texture of products other than burgers or nuggets.
“When I get a steak, I want to see a steak,” said Jon Medved, CEO of the Israeli investing platform OurCrowd. “And we’re just not there yet.”
Price is also a problem. Production costs for the first cultivated beef burger, created a decade ago by Mark Post at Maastricht University in The Netherlands, were estimated to be in the hundreds of thousands of dollars. Now, the university says, the company he helped found, Mosa Meat, has reduced that to about $10 as it works toward commercialization.
For cultivated meat to take hold, such trends must continue, said Bruce Friedrich, president and founder of the Good Food Institute, a Washington, D.C.-based nonprofit advocacy group focused on plant-based and cultivated proteins. “If we don’t have products that taste the same or better and cost the same or less, people are not going to switch,” he said.
But there are vexing scientific hurdles. Gaudette said scientists are still trying to find the best scaffolds for structured meat, which must include a way for oxygen to get to all the cells. Options include animal-based scaffolds such as gelatin and, increasingly, decellularized vegetables like spinach. Gaudette said scientists are also working on challenges like getting the cells to adhere to scaffolds and align in the right way.
Cell food, the most expensive part of the cultivated meat process, presents different dilemmas. Some media includes expensive fetal bovine serum, which is derived from the blood of a cow fetus. Other types are serum-free but include costly ingredients. Startups are exploring less expensive non-animal alternatives, such as food-grade, rather than pharmaceutical-grade, “growth factors,” substances that stimulate cells to divide and grow in number.
Experts expect scientists to overcome the remaining scientific hurdles. But they say shaping human perception may be more difficult.
Most people connect meat production with farms rather than science labs — which influences how they view these new products.
In the AP-NORC poll, just 18% of U.S. adults said they are extremely or very likely to try cultivated meat, and 30% said they are somewhat likely. Those under 45 years old are more likely than older adults to try it and men are more likely than women. When those unlikely to try it were asked to choose from a list of reasons why, half said they didn’t think it would be safe.
That’s a concern for respondent Nora Bailey, 31, a mother of three in rural Arkansas.
“I would obviously want to do more research as far as the long-term effects,” since early products deemed safe may later be found to be unsafe, she said.
A World Health Organization report noted several potential safety issues, such as microbial contamination at various points in the process, biological by-products and scaffolding that some people might be allergic to. Experts acknowledged a lot more safety testing is needed but noted that conventional meat carries significant food-safety risks, such as potential bacterial contamination during slaughter.
Experts say a lot more people will be trying cultivated meat soon. A recent report from the Good Food Institute found cultivated meat investments tripled on average each year from 2016 to 2022. About 70 traditional meat and food companies are involved with cultivated meat in some way. And regulatory approvals in the U.S. are expected to be followed by many more elsewhere.
With all of that pushing them forward, some cultivated meat companies are growing as fast as their cells. Good Meat has nearly completed a production facility in Singapore and plans a large-scale U.S. plant. Believer broke ground on its own large-scale plant last December in North Carolina.
Management consultant firm McKinsey & Company predicts cultivated meat could provide billions of pounds of the world’s meat supply by 2030. Still, that’s only around half a percent, and not nearly enough to offset rising consumption of meat from animals.
Though no one expects cultivated meat to transform human diets any time soon, some experts say population and climate pressures may make traditional meat production impossible in the long term — making cultivated meat a potential solution for a growing, fragile world.