Ask Ottolenghi: what can I use instead of chilli?

So many recipes rely on chilli for flavour, but unfortunately it numbs my mouth and I then can’t taste anything, so it’s just an unpleasant experience. What’s a good substitute so dishes still pack a punch, but not in a painful way?
Yvonne, Netherlands
Just fresh chilli or all chilli? Lots of dried chillies are much more about their smoky depth, and chocolatey, sweet notes than their kick – ancho and pasilla, for example, are wonderful. Also, if a recipe calls for chilli flakes, try red bell pepper flakes instead, or smoked paprika rather than smoky chilli: both bring the colour and depth you don’t want to miss out on, without the heat you do want to avoid.

If, on the other hand, you want to replicate the punch of chilli, a combination of garlic, ginger and spring onion will get you a long way. Add them at the start of cooking and sweat gently in oil, or use as a finishing touch, much as you would a tarka: soften in a little oil, then drizzle on top. Smoked garlic is another ingredient to play around with to introduce big flavour to all sorts (while we’re on the subject of smoked ingredients, smoked salt is another great option).

Citrus is also a good idea, not just lemon or lime juice, say, but also the flesh, roughly chopped – that’s great in dressings and salads – while the zest is good for grating on top just before serving.

Moving away from the heat of chilli, miso, parmesan and anchovies are other fast-tracks to flavour. Stir miso into stews or braises, drop a chunk of parmesan rind into a soup, or stir in some chopped anchovy: all three will reduce your chances of feeling as if you’re missing out by not using chilli.

And don’t forget that finishing flourish, be it furikake, za’atar, dukkah or crumbled dried seaweed for a final burst of texture and flavour to give a savoury dish a bold, chilli-free ta-da.