How's this for scary: You're just as likely to deal with hair loss as the guy next door. We're not talking about full-blown balding, but more subtle (and no less traumatic) thinning, like your part getting wider or your scalp showing through. "About 40–50% of women are affected by hair thinning," says Nicole Rogers, MD, a hair transplant surgeon and board-certified dermatologist based in New Orleans. But in order to treat it, you need to get to the root of the problem. One thing standing in your way? All those myths about what causes or fixes hair loss. So we spoke to the experts to separate fact from fiction, once and for all.
The Myth: You'll lose your hair if your mom's dad did.
The Truth: You can't predict hair loss by looking at your family tree. Like many traits, hair loss is polygenetic, which means that your fate is decided by a (pretty random) assortment of genes from both immediate and extended relatives, says Rogers. That said, if hair loss generally runs in your family, you're more likely to deal with it, too.
The Myth: Minoxidil is the only treatment that works.
The Truth: Minoxidil, a drug that's been proven to stimulate hair growth in adults with thinning hair, is the only FDA-approved topical treatment for hair loss in women, but it's not the only at-home fix on the market. You can try low level light therapy using special high tech combs and caps, like the FDA-approved Hairmax Professional 12 LaserComb, ($545; hairmax.com). Though it's not clear exactly what about low-level light triggers regrowth in dysfunctional hair follicles, scientists do know it works. If used alone, the benefits of light therapy will be modest at best, but the only possible drawbacks are the price, says Paradi Mirmirani, MD, a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology.
MORE: 4 Simple Solutions For Seasonally Thinning Hair
The Myth: Hair thinning only happens with age.
The Truth: We hate to say it, but you're never too young to start losing your hair. "If you're genetically predisposed, it can hit as early as in your teens," Mirmirani says. The (kind of) good news is that if your ponytail isn't quite as full as it used to be (losing 50-100 strands a day is normal), there isn't necessarily any health issue behind it. It might just be in your genes. But keep a lookout: "Hair thinning is chronic and progressive, so the sooner you treat it, the better," Rogers says.
The Myth: Washing your hair too much can cause thinning.
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The Truth: There's no need to fear the shampoo bottle. "You're just cleansing the scalp, and that's not going to affect the root," Mirmirani says. As for the strands on the shower floor, they've likely come to the end of their natural cycle anyway. So unless you're breaking strands by raking a comb or brush through wet hair, the washing process is only getting rid of the stuff that's already come loose from your scalp.
The Myth: Topical treatments cause facial hair if you use them wrong.
The Truth: There's actually a bit of truth to this one. If the concentration is too strong, and if you're prone to noticeable facial hair, topical minoxidil can cause facial hair regardless of how you use it. The drug gets systemically absorbed, so the only way to avoid this embarrassing side effect is to use a product with a lower concentration of minoxidil. Look for treatments with 2% concentrations of the drug instead of the full-strength 5%, like Pantene Hair Regrowth Treatment For Women ($24; walgreens.com).
The Myth: Birth control makes your hair fall out.
The Truth: Unfortunately, this one is half true. Women genetically prone to hair loss have follicles that are more sensitive to androgens, hormones responsible for male traits and reproductive health. So if the type of birth control you're using is heavy in progesterone, a hormone that easily converts to androgen, it can trigger hair loss. But not all contraceptives have the same chemical makeup. If you have particular concerns about hair thinning, ask for a birth control option whose progestins don't have potentially loss-triggering androgenic effects, Mirmirani says.
The Myth: Supplements can help with hair regrowth.
The Truth: Though certain hair supplements have a lot of anecdotal support (and are harmless to try), there isn't any convincing research to suggest that any one pill will amp up growth. But taking something to promote general well-being can only be a good thing for the health of the hair you do have. "I usually recommend a daily multivitamin and extra vitamin D if you avoid the sun," Mirmirani says.
MORE: 7 Food Fixes For Thinning Hair
The Myth: You can blame hormones for your hair loss.
The Truth: Haywire hormones are rarely the cause of thinning hair in women. Many women have perfectly normal hormone levels, but their follicles are just generally more susceptible to hormones (particularly androgens). If you have super-sensitive follicles, messing with your already-normal hormone levels isn't the way to go—talking to your dermatologist about other treatments, like low level light therapy and minoxidil, is the smartest approach.
The Myth: Your miserable commute is making you lose your hair.
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The Truth: The sudden onset of stress, known as telogen effluvium, is harder to bring on than you'd think. Stress can make your hair fall out, but it has to be major psychological distress, Rogers explains. "If it was caused by everyday stress we'd all be bald," Rogers says. So, thankfully, a crazy couple of weeks won't send you to the wig store. "The most common cause of telogen effluvium is actually childbirth," she says. Other causes include prolonged illness, general anesthesia, high fevers, and crash dieting.
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