Beauty How-To: Eye-Enhancing Makeup

Wondering how to accentuate your eyes in a natural-looking way? Lancôme's Sandy Linter, head makeup artist at New York's Rita Hazan Salon, shows how a neutral smoky eye can work wonders.

"Start with an eye shadow base—something that's tacky so that it holds the shadow," says Linter, who used Lancôme Aquatique Waterproof Eyecolour Base in Nude. "If your eyelid is dry you can use a concealer, but if your lid is warm you really do need a base that will pick up moisture and keep your makeup looking smooth." Lancôme Aquatique Waterproof Eyecolour Base, $25.50; macys.com

"When you want to enhance your eyes, you should use a dark liner—navy, charcoal, brown, or black—to contrast against the whites of your eye and your eye color," says Linter. "You should also use pencil because it's easily manipulated. Liquids and gels will chip and flake, but pencil can be pushed around to form a beautiful shape." Linter opted for Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee and applied it along the upper lash line in "little dashes," working from the inner corner of the eye to the outside edge. "The shape should get gradually thicker as you move away from the nose," she says. Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee, $25.50; neimanmarcus.com

After dotting lids with liner, Linter connected the dashes: "A tiny eyeliner brush softens and perfects the line." She then used a pointed cotton tip to push the line "up and out" at the corners. Fran Wilson Eye Tees Precision Makeup Applicators, $3.29; sallybeauty.com

For the crease color, Linter lined eye sockets with taupe pencil, a lighter shade than the one used along the lashes. Starting under the brow bone, she extended the line to the outer corners to create a "v" shape. "It's an old trick that opens up the eyes," she says. Next, she retraced her steps with gel liner and powder shadow in similar taupe hues using a dome-shaped brush ("layering your makeup makes it last all day and through the night"). To add drama, she winged color up and over the brow bone, toward the end of the eyebrow.

"A neutral smoky eye is all about playing with dark and light," says Linter, who used the shimmering ivory-pink shade from Lancôme's Color Design palette in Coral Crush on lids. "Having darker tones surround a lighter one gives shape and definition—the light on the eye makes it pop." Lancôme Color Design Eye Brightening All-in-One 5 Shadow & Liner Palette in Coral Crush, $49; lancome-usa.com

"A lot of people don't like using pencil under the eye, but I like it because I think it makes the eye look more finished," says Linter, who swept Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee—the same liner she used on top—underneath lashes, softening the line with a cotton swab. Because the inner corners of eyes "tend to get wet," Linter only placed liner along the outermost portion of the waterline.

"Curled eyelashes make everyone's eyes look bigger," says Linter. "Make sure to fully cup the lashes in the curler—pinch close to the roots so that you're not just bending hairs at the ends."

"Mascara also brings out your eyes. Instead of the using the whole wand, I just use the tip, separating lashes as I go," says Linter. "This way, I don't apply too much mascara at once and lashes don't get stuck together."

When faking a thicker lash line, don't dispel the illusion. "I can't stand seeing a space of skin separating the eyeliner from the eyelash," says Linter. To fill in gaps, she used a small, stiff brush to apply gel eyeliner in hard-to-reach places.

Brighten the eye area by using a sheer, translucent concealer or highlighter around the eye. One to try: Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat Radiant Touch. Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat Radiant Touch Highlighter, $40; saksfifthavenue.com

To have a truly eye-opening experience, employ white eyeliner too: "Adding white to the inner corner of the eye makes you look less tired," says Linter.

"I like when brows bring attention to the eye area in a soft way that's not too manicured and cosmetic-looking," says Linter, who adds that, "Natural brows are more innocent. Over-tweezed arches make you appear older." To have your brows reach "their full potential," Linter suggests brushing them up with a clear brow mascara.

Complement your smoldering smoky eyes with a touch of bronzer under the cheekbones for definition, and creamy pink blush on the apples of the cheeks "to make eyes look lighter," says Linter. Add rosy lipstick and gloss to your pout and you're ready to go!