How to Speak Hairdresser: Tips on Getting the Haircut You Want

October 11, 2009

Bad haircuts: Along with massive acne breakouts, they're one of the most mortifying beauty experiences you can have. To make the most of your crowning glory—and to avoid any freak-outs, meltdowns or OMG salon moments—use these straight-from-the-pros tips to make sure your next haircut is the most perfect do ever.

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Make sure your hairstylist sees and touches your hair before he picks up the scissors.

While the shampoo stage of the haircutting process can be the most relaxing, don't rush right into it. "If someone from the salon offers to shampoo you before your stylist sees you, ask to wait to talk with the stylist," says New York City hair pro Philip Pelusi. "It is important for the stylist to see how your hair looks currently, how you style it now and to check out your hair's growth patterns before she starts cutting."
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Use the right lingo—and a lot of it.

A few adjectives could mean the difference between the best cut of your life and a hair horror story, so get specific about what you want—your stylist won't mind if it takes you a few different tries to say exactly what you mean. This is especially true when you get into tricky territory like bangs. "I like words that are a little more descriptive like strong bangs, soft bangs or a general vibe like I don't want hard lines,'" says celebrity hairstylist Ted Gibson.

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Talk in terms of problems and not "wouldn't it be cool if it looked like _______" solutions.

"Make a list of the problems you had with your last haircut and also all the styling problems you are having with your hair. List color or chemical problems, too," suggests Philip Pelusi. "This is a very effective way to get all your hair problems solved at once instead of something like asking for more layers because you need more volume or a darker color because your color is fading."
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Bring in a hairstyle scrapbook…

You know all those celeb magazine photos you've gazed at and thought, Gee I wish my hair looked like that? Bring a few with you to your next salon appointment. "Photographs are a terrific starting point, so I recommend that my clients bring in images that relate to the hair texture they want, colors they love and shapes that inspire them," says Sassoon Salon regional creative director Martyn Duff.

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…but be prepared for some ideas to stay in the wishful-thinking pile.

Are you ready for a reality check? Here it comes: Your ideal hairstyle might not work with the hair you were born with—and a good stylist won't try to do the impossible, which could result in a less-than-sexy do. "They'll either tell you steps that can be taken to achieve that style or maybe why your hair type won't work for the style," says Pelusi. "Either way, [showing photos to your stylist is a] time-saver that really helps communicate your hair dreams."
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Be careful when you use the words "short" and "shorter."

Your version of short could be very different from your hairdresser's. To avoid having a freak-out about losing too much length, ask your stylist to show you exactly how short she'll be cutting. " As hairdressers, we want to make our clients happy, so don't hesitate to ask to see how much will be cut off," says Pelusi.

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Make sure the "snip tour" goes all the way around your head.

When your stylist is giving you a little preview of what's to come, make sure you talk about the back, sides and front of your hair—and ask for a guided tour. "Be sure to be specific about your questions and answers," advises Gibson. "Short layers and long layers work well, but if you like your hair more layered in one place and longer in another, tell the stylist."
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Let your stylist know if you're low- or high-maintenance.

"If a client can articulate how her hair relates to her lifestyle and how much time she'd like to spend on her hair, those details are really the best way to ensure we will create the most appropriate look," says Duff. Translation? If you're a ponytail-n-go kind of girl, don't ask for a hairstyle that'll take you two hours to get right. It'll only frustrate you later on down the line.

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Find out if you have to use specific products to re-create the styling magic.

Yes, hairstylists are total pros, but part of the reason your hair looks so good when you leave the salon is because they use the right products. Take the opportunity while you're sitting in your chair to find out what they're using, what they like and what exactly you should use. To get the best answers, you have to be specific: "If you have curly hair, ask how often to shampoo and what products you should use so that it doesn't dry out your hair. Ask what styling products are going to give the best results and not weigh down hair, etc.," suggests Gibson.
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Don't be afraid that you're being an annoying client with all these questions.

"It is best for clients to be armed with as much information as possible," says Duff. "You won't offend us—the more details the better! Then the stylist and client can be on the same wavelength." You heard it from the pros, so feel free to ask away!