Several readers have asked for advice on getting rid of Creeping Charlie. This annoying weed is also known as ground ivy, Creeping Jenny, Ground-Over-the-Gill and probably a few more that I’ve forgotten.
It is Glechoma hederacea, a perennial with square, running stems or stolons, that produce clusters of leaves at the nodes. More importantly, it can also root at each of these clusters. Identify Creeping Charlie by the running stems, clusters of kidney-bean shaped leaves with scalloped edges and tiny purple or blue flowers, in clusters of three, that some say resemble snapdragons.
The next question is “How do I get rid of it?” The short answer is you probably will never get rid of every bit. Your alternatives are to try and control the extent of the problem or get used to it as a groundcover.
In the lawn, Creeping Charlie is an indication of less-than-desirable growing conditions for your lawn. If Charlie is happy, your grass probably isn’t.
Is this a shady, moist spot? What is the pH? Consider trimming back whatever is creating the shade, correcting any drainage problems, testing for and correcting any pH problems, selecting a more shade tolerant grass or opting for a different plant such as a shade-loving groundcover.
Is Charlie growing in bare spots? After careful removal, rake, reseed, water and fertilize bare spots in the lawn. If the bare ground is in flowerbeds or under trees or shrubs, consider using a mulch to smother it. Any bare ground is a potential site for weeds, some even nastier than Charlie.
Is there a good plan of attack? Yes, and it starts with properly identifying the problem — first, is it Creeping Charlie or something else? If you know what you are fighting, you can tailor the attack. Is it a perennial or annual weed? How does it spread? What conditions does it like? And so on.
Timed attacks: Be sure to attempt any control method before Charlie goes to seed. You don’t need to battle the new seedlings as well as the initial plant and rooted nodes. Creeping Charles is, as I mentioned, a perennial, so any weed control product directed at annuals will only kill off any seeds that are present.
Herbicides: If you are going to use herbicides, check to be sure it is effective on Charlie and that it is safe to use around whatever desirable plants are in the area. Also note that with any herbicide, there are safety concerns with children or pets (they are closer to the ground and more easily affected), runoff into aquatic environments (ponds, lakes, streams, wetlands), drift (application on windy days will allow any herbicide to spread into unwanted areas), temperature and weather and effect on groundwater. What you need is a post-emergent herbicide containing triclopyr, often found in combination with dicamba or 2,4-D. Follow package directions and apply a second application as directed.
Manual intervention: Hoeing and hand-weeding are the first line of attack. Try to get as much root as possible and be prepared to repeat the attack at regular intervals.
Mulch: Mulching an area definitely will decrease but not eliminate weeds. Since it also conserves moisture and can be an attractive feature of the garden, mulch is a consideration. If you choose to use mulch, add it immediately after you weed.
Borax: There have been suggestions that an application of borax can be a weed-killer for Creeping Charlie. Borax contains boron, something plants need but only in very small quantities. It is true that Glechoma hederacea is more sensitive to borax than other plants; grass for instance. However, borax remains in the soil much longer than most herbicides and multiple applications can reach toxic levels for other plants as well.
It may be natural but that doesn’t mean it is always the safest option. Since it is not a registered herbicide, it has not undergone the extensive testing needed for registration; the box contains no warnings of the possible consequences and no directions on the effective use, application rate or necessary precautions. I don’t recommend this solution but the formulation can be found online with a little searching.
In the garden
As some of you know, my wonderful cat, Elsa, died last fall. I recently got a new kitten, Emma, who unlike my previous cats, likes to chew plants. To thwart her chewing, and getting tired of picking her up, telling her no and putting her down somewhere else, I tried something different. Reasoning that peppermint oil discourages mice in my kitchen cabinets and adventuresome chipmunks from sneaking through the magnetic screen door, maybe it would offend the senses of a small kitten.
My first attempt was a bit too much. I poured some essential peppermint oil on a dishcloth and placed it over her favorite plant. It worked so well that she refused to come up to the second floor at all. Way too much — so I tried a few moist cotton balls and that worked. I let her smell the bottle. Now she checks to see if the bottle is on the table before she jumps — we have had no repeat plant munchings, at least not where I’ve scented with peppermint.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, P.O. Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105
This Week in the Garden
*Planting:
*Start seeds for: Baby’s breath, cosmos, and zinnias. Direct sow: Chinese cabbage, endive, escarole, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, head lettuce and leaf lettuce. Also sow: beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, peas, radishes, spinach and turnips. Continue planting seeds for transplanting for: Balsam, bachelor buttons, calendula, cockscomb, gaillardia, marigold, morning glory, and nasturtium.
*Plant bare root trees and shrubs when soil is warm and dry enough to work.
*Follow a schedule for starting seeds. Check packets for instructions such as start indoors four weeks before last frost date. Then, using a calendar, count back from your area’s date (April 10-15 for southern Lehigh Valley, May 10-15 for northern areas) for the appropriate starting time.
*Seasonal:
*Visit nurseries as they open for inspiration and new plants. Shop for summer bulbs.
*Consider applying a top dressing of compost to lawns and beds.
*Test soil for new beds. Retest soil in poorly performing areas or if you haven’t tested in the last 3-5 years.
*Cut back ornamental grasses. Divide clumps when you see new growth.
*Fertilize perennials.
*Prune and divide late summer and fall blooming perennials.
*Lawns:
*Fill in holes or dents in lawns and seed, seed or overseed lawns now until mid-May.
*Plan and order sod for installation in mid-April through May. Begin broadleaf weed control now through mid-May.
*Dethatch lawns from mid-April to mid-May.
*Chores:
*Clear lawn and beds of winter debris:
*Check for heaved plants
*Rake back winter mulches. Spring and summer mulch should be 2 to 3 inches deep and applied a few inches away from foundations, tree trunks and other plants. Fluff mulch and add more if needed.
*Apply pre-emergent crabgrass control on lawns in the next few weeks. If you use corn gluten based weed control in garden beds, begin applying now and repeat as directed, usually at 4- to 6-week intervals.
*As plants wintering over indoors begin to put out new growth, increase watering and sunlight.
*Check stored summer bulbs each month. Store in a cool, dry, frost-free area as you dig them up for storage. Discard rotting bulbs and rehydrate shriveled ones.
*Provide and check deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents.
*Clean bird feeders, feed birds regularly and provide fresh water. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls.
*Tools, equipment, and supplies
*Calculate amount of spring mulch needed and order or purchase
*Inventory and restock seed starting and potting supplies.
*Store cleaned and repaired fall tools. Purchase replacements if necessary.
*Check spring equipment — service and/or purchase replacements. Use fresh gas, check and/or replace oil, sharpen blades, examine wires and sparkplugs.
*Replace worn or broken tools. Clean, sharpen and oil hand tools.
*Safety:
*Clear lawns of any debris before mowing.
*Store garden chemicals safely indoors.
*Avoid pruning anything that can’t be reached from the ground.
*Check for ticks after every outing.
*Always wear gloves to protect hands. Use eye protection when cutting or chopping and appropriate ear protection when using any loud power tools.
— Sue Kittek
