Adjusting a water-pressure regulator valve is easy. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise to reduce pressure.
Pressure Regulator
Is the pressure regulator on an incoming water line adjustable? The pipes bang when I flush a toilet or abruptly let off pressure on a garden hose nozzle.
Check water pressure with a gauge ($8 to $12) installed on an exterior faucet.
Yes, the regulator is adjustable and you should try adjusting it before resorting to more expensive remedies, such as installing cushioning devices called water hammer arresters. In addition to causing the banging you describe (a condition called water hammer), high water pressure can erode washers and result in leaks. It also creates premature wear on appliances, including your dishwasher and clothes washer.
The typical inlet water pressure to a home is about 40 to 45 psi. Normally, it should not exceed 60 psi. The pressure regulator is usually preset to 50 psi. However, it can be adjusted anywhere from 25 to 75 psi with a simple turn of a screw, as shown above.
To check the pressure, connect a pressure gauge to the nearest exterior faucet. These gauges are sold at home centers in the same area as in-ground sprinkler components.
Clog Busting the Kitchen Drain
My kitchen drain clogs and is not easily cleared. I've tried a plunger, but since the sink is a double-bowl type, the plunger force is inadequate. How can I keep the trap clear?
Be sure that your dishwashing habits are not contributing to the problem. The worst kitchen drain clogger is grease. Pour off grease from cookware into a container, then dispose of it when it has cooled.
Also, remove and inspect the trap to confirm that hardened minerals or debris is not blocking it. Replace the trap if its internal diameter has been reduced by hardened buildup. With the trap removed, run a hand-powered auger through the downstream pipes.
My attic has 6 in. of insulation, but I'd like to add more. How do I go about installing it?
It's easy to add insulation, but first use a can of spray foam insulation to seal any openings (including holes for electrical wires and pipes) that allow warm air to pass from the living area into the attic.
Install unfaced insulation above the existing insulation. Fill the joist cavities first. Afterward, you may decide to apply an additional layer of insulation perpendicular to the joists. To determine how much insulation to install, visit eere.energy.gov.
Take several precautions when working in the attic. Wear a respirator, eye protection and disposable painter coveralls. Leave the coveralls in the attic when you come down for a break to avoid bringing dust and loose insulation fibers into the house's living area. Put down plywood or lumber to serve as a work surface. Be mindful of roofing nails poking through roof sheathing.
A typical attic is filled with electrical wiring (some of which may be old and brittle), junction boxes, air-conditioning ducts and condensate drains. Break any of this by stepping on it, and you'll have more than heat loss to worry about; expensive mechanical repairs will offset any gains made by the insulation relative to your heating costs. Finally, don't insulate against recessed light fixtures that are not approved for insulation contact. Leave at least 3 in. of air space around them.
At the eaves, use a polystyrene baffle such as Owens Corning Raft-R-Mate (owenscorning .com). These panels prevent insulation from blocking soffit vents, and allow air to flow up from the eaves and out of a ridge or gable vent.
Too Many Amps?
My 200-amp electrical panel box has 400 amps' worth of circuit breakers. Is this safe?
Yes. It's better to have many individual circuits than fewer circuits with larger electrical loads. Also, not every circuit will be energized at the same time, and it's unlikely that they will see the full load for which they are rated.
For example, a 120-volt, 15-amp branch circuit that provides power to four lighting fixtures, each of which has a 150-watt bulb, uses only 5 amps.
Ugly Cabinets
My 1970s-era kitchen cabinets are dark-colored and kind of ugly. Otherwise, they're in good condition. I'd like to paint them a lighter color, but how?
Two coats of Insl-x Cabinet Coat (insl-x.com) should work. It's a water-based urethane-acrylic satin enamel formulated to cover difficult substrate such as kitchen cabinets, which tend to be dark and finished with smooth coatings that include polyurethane or varnish. A gallon costs $35 to $40.
A work-saving benefit: Cabinet Coat doesn't require a primer when applied over previously finished wood. However, you should remove the cabinet doors and drawers, as well as the hardware from both. Then, clean the doors, drawer surfaces and the cabinet itself with a degreaser. Lightly scuff-sand the surfaces before applying the finish. Remove all traces of sanding dust before proceeding.
After the second coat of paint is dry, install new hardware, and the cabinets will look like new.
Wood Splitters
Split Decision
Running a small maple sugar operation at my farm in upstate New York, I burn dozens of cords of wood every sugaring season to boil down sap. Recently, I tried out four moderately priced wood splitters. I learned that each was up to the task for which it was designed and priced. Gas-engine splitters start at about $800 and can cost as much as $8000. To determine how much you should spend on a splitter, multiply the number of cords you burn by $500. If you burn one to three cords a year, choose a machine in the $800 to $1500 range. If you burn more than three cords, buy a light-commercial model in the $2000 range. It's better to go slightly oversize because a larger splitter cycles faster and is more durable than a smaller one. Don't be fooled by just the size of the hydraulic cylinder. The engine and the hydraulic pump provide the performance, not the cylinder. -- Fred Mackerodt
Power strips are not difficult to install, but putting their mounting screws in the right location can be a bit tricky. Try this: Apply a piece of tape to the strip's back and use a pencil to punch holes through the tape, centered in the hanging holes. Remove the tape and press it on the wall where you will hang the strip. Next, use screws to mark the wall through the holes in the tape. Drill on the marks and install the hollow wall fasteners for the hanger screws. — Pat Porzio is a mechanical contractor in Haskell, N.J.
Products to Get the Job Done
Help for damaged fasteners, garage storage, home protection and loud work environments.
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