Brush up on blusher: How to get perfect flushed cheeks, whatever age you are

By Elsa Mcalonan for MailOnline

Published: 17:46 EDT, 10 April 2013 | Updated: 17:46 EDT, 10 April 2013

Blusher can transform your look, but many women are nervous about using it.

Here, Elsa McAlonahan asks top make-up artists for their fail‑safe rules to help give you a natural flush that there’s no need to blush about.

WHAT'S BEST IF YOU'RE OVER 40?

This spring sees the launch of several new-generation products that can be used at any age. Cream blusher is easier to blend and the moisture adds dewiness to mature skin. It also works better on top of foundation than powder blusher. 

Bourjois’s Cream Blush (above, £7.99, Boots) is a cream-powder formula with poppy, mango and apricot extracts. 

The texture is so light you can apply it with your fingers, and the overall effect is very natural.
There are four shades — Nude Velvet (a light, delicate peach); Rose Tender (soft pink with a pearly finish); Sweet Cherry (deep matte brown-pink); and Healthy Glow (vibrant apricot-pink), which is my favourite. 

Make-up artist Cassie Lomas suggests dotting it on to the apples of your cheeks and using your fingers to blend it towards the temples to give a subtle, sculpted effect. 

If you are prone to oily skin, use a powder blusher instead. Always use a brush to apply it and make sure you tap off any excess so you don’t put on too much. 

Make-up artist Kate Hughes says: 'Powder is best for oily skin, while cream is great for dry skin.'

HOW DO I CHOOSE THE RIGHT SHADE?

One fool-proof tip is to choose a shade that matches your cheeks when flushed. Or match your cheeks to your lip colour. 

As a rule, fair skin looks great in rose and peach and darker skin suits apricot or red.
Before you buy blusher, test it in natural light. 

Pastels, such as pretty peaches, liven up your skin. Dick Page, global creative director for Shiseido, recommends trying different shades. 'Find one that illuminates your skin and make sure your complexion looks healthy and bright,' he says. 

'Just experiment. Start with soft pink or coral, and if you think you need something brighter, go with rosy reds or deeper mauve plums if your skin tone is warmer. 

'The look of a natural flush is most flattering, so I prefer pinkish reds and reddish plum tones.'

Try Shisheido’s Luminizing Satin Face Colour in Starfish (£33, John Lewis), which highlights and illuminates the skin and gives a vibrant, healthy quality.

WHERE SHOULD I APPLY IT?

Max Factor make-up artist Caroline Barnes says: 'If you’re under 40, blusher should be used as a subtle hue to the cheeks to add freshness and health. 

'For your base, imagine you’ve been wearing sunglasses and have a subtle ski tan, so the tone around your eyes is lighter. 

'Then you’re free to use blusher in a creative way. Try it on the apples of your cheeks or under the cheekbone for contouring. If you are older, apply the first stroke of the blush directly under your cheekbones and lift up high along the cheekbone. This gives lift to the face as it draws the lines of the face upwards.'

Make-up artists love Max Factor Miracle Touch Creamy Blusher (right, £6.99, Boots) in Soft Murano, a pale warm pink. 

Bobbi Brown make-up artist Hannah Martin says: 'Smile at yourself and place the tip of your foundation brush on the very top of the apple of the cheek, nice and high, to make sure it looks lifted.
'Blush placed too low on the face can drag down the cheeks. To pop the cheeks, add a brighter colour to the very front of the cheeks.'

Try Bobbi Brown Blush in Apricot (£18, bobbibrown.co.uk), a silky formula with a matte finish and long-lasting wear. 

Celebrity make-up artist Cassie Lomas warns against applying it too high on the cheekbones. 

'It creates a longer face and a shorter forehead. The right way is to use the centre of your ear as a guide. Start with the apples of your cheeks and aim for the centre of the ear. 

'Use a brush to swirl it over the apples, then brush back and forth  horizontally, not vertically.'

HOW CAN I CREATE CHEEKBONES?

Rebecca Restrepo, Elizabeth Arden’s global make-up artist, says: 'The objective is to heighten the look of the cheekbones and have a fresh pop of colour. Smile and apply on the apples of the cheeks while gently rubbing upwards, but stop before the hairline. 

'For a more defined look, sweep bronzer or powder blush under the cheekbones while sucking in your cheeks. Then use cream blusher on the apples. 

'Try Elizabeth Arden New Beautiful Color Radiance Blush in Sweet Peach or Ceramide Plump Perfect Cheek Colour in Plum (£25 each, House of Fraser).'