How to Shave With a Straight Razor
Learn to shave the old fashioned way in eight simple steps, and to maintain essential tools in seven more.
No matter what your personal style is—whether you're a suit-wearer or the kind of guy who prefers jeans and sneakers—there are certain skills every man should possess. That's where we come in. This week, we present five essential style and grooming skills, in handy step-by-step format. Just pull up a chair and read, then get to work. You can never practice these things enough.
Some things are done better by looking to the past. We'll happily keep our smartphones, but when it comes to shaving, our forefathers were onto something with the straight razor. It takes a few minutes longer than shaving with modern blades, but the benefits far outweigh the costs. You'll get a far closer shave and save money over time—a well-looked after straight razor will last a lifetime. Set a few minutes aside for yourself and prepare for the best shave you've ever had outside the barbershop.
1. Prepping your skin before shaving is necessary to get a close, comfortable shave. You'll want your hair follicles soft and your pores to be open. It's best to take a hot shower or wrap your face in a hot towel, just like at the barber shop. Give it a few minutes to allow your pores to open and all of your facial hair to soften. You'll be glad you did.
2. Pick up some pre-shave oil and apply it liberally. If your skin is sensitive, this will help prevent razor burn.
3. After applying shaving cream (extra points for using a lather brush), start at the top of your face on your dominant hand side. Hold the blade at about a 30 degree angle.
4. With your opposite hand, gently pull the skin up to create a smoother surface.
5. Using very little pressure, slowly and carefully shave with the grain until you reach the jawline, always trying to make the skin on the shaving surface as taught (but comfortable) as possible.
6. Take extra care when shaving beneath the chin and jawline. Use your opposite hand to pull the skin down for a closer shave.
7. After you've made a full pass going with the grain, multiple passes will make for an even closer shave. Start by going across the grain even more gently than before and finish with a very gentle sweep against the grain.
8. Rinse your face with cold water and throw on a bit of your favorite aftershave. Remember, the best way to get a close shave is with a sharp blade, so follow the steps below to keep your equipment in top form.
Honing
1. Using a barberstone or whetstone, establish if your sharpening surface needs to be lubricated. If so, a splash of water will do the trick.
2. Unlike stropping, with honing you want to lead with the edge of the blade.
3. Make sure the blade is perfectly flat on the stone. Use moderate pressure, leading with the rear of the handle and the edge of the blade on each pass. Generally, 20 strokes will be sufficient, but if your blade is in rough shape, it may require a few extra.
4. After honing the razor, give it a good strop and you're set.
Stroping
1. With your stropping strip taut (this could be leather or canvas), prepare to stroke the razor with the spine trailing each stroke, and the rear of the razor handle leading.
2. Rotate the razor on each pass so the spine is always the heel and the handle is always leading.
3. Make around 30 passes total (15 for each side).
* This article is part of The Code, an editorial partnership between Esquire and Ford F-150.
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