What's a Keratin Treatment? A Complete Breakdown of How It Transforms Hair

A keratin treatment just changed my life. Dramatic? Yes. Inaccurate? Hell no. It's a temporary chemical treatment that softens your hair, adding shine and removing frizz. "Think of it like putting a corset on your follicle, condensing the volume and keeping the surface smooth," says Raphael Roque, senior stylist at Rob Peetoom Williamsburg and a keratin treatment extraordinaire.

I have tight, 4b-4c coils and when my hair isn't in braids, I'm wearing it straight. So for me, getting a keratin treatment is a way to help my hair better retain heat styling without repeatedly frying my strands.

If you're considering trying a keratin treatment, learn everything you need to know here.

How Does a Keratin Treatment Work?

Primarily, there are two types of keratin treatments out there — those with formaldehyde and those without it. They're each designed to deflect moisture and humidity. "It's creating a barrier that will be temporary for a couple of months," says Roque. Those with formaldehyde are much more effective, and the effects last longer than those without.

Once the solution is applied, extreme heat is used to set it in place. "Anything above 350°F degrees, I consider extreme heat to the hair," says Roque. "If you're not doing a chemical service for the hair, you shouldn't be exceeding those levels of heat at home."

What Happens During a Keratin Treatment

1. Deep Shampoo

Like many salon treatments, a keratin treatment starts with shampooing. My lather, rinse, and repeat was done with a clarifying shampoo. This gets your hair squeaky clean, so when the keratin treatment is applied, it can really sink in and bond to your strands.

2. Keratin Application

Once your hair is clean, your stylist will section your hair and comb the treatment into wet, unconditioned hair. "We want a very rough, raw, and clean surface so that there's nothing in between your hair and the keratin solution to alter that from not attaching properly," says Roque.

3. Let it Sit

Depending on your hair type and the treatment used, it may need some time to sit before moving on. After the keratin treatment was applied, Roque put a plastic cap on my hair and used a hood dryer to let it marinate on my head for about 20 minutes.

4. Blow Dry

Next, Roque blow-dried my hair in teeny tiny sections using a coarse brush to ensure each strand got stretched as it was dried. Because this step blows the chemicals around, both Roque and I wore protective face masks, and Roque set up a special air purifier.

5. Flat-Ironing

This is where things got intense. After blow-drying, Roque spent at least three hours (if not longer, I honestly lost count) flat ironing my hair. He moved in the smallest sections with three different flat irons — one for the roots, another for the mids, and another for the ends. This is done to bond the treatment to your hair, creating that "corset" effect. And it can't be emphasized enough: this is the part that really makes a keratin treatment a keratin treatment. Applying the solution is one thing, but to really set it in place, you need heat. Lots of heat. I can honestly say my hair has never experienced so many passes of a flat iron over one section.

6. Keep it Dry

Once the flat iron is done, and barring any other desired styling, you're free to go. Your stylist should tell you how long you can wait before wetting your hair, which can vary up to 48 hours, depending on what kind of service you get. For my treatment, I was instructed to wait 24 hours. And since I don't wash my hair more than once a week, this was an easy direction to follow.

Keratin Treatment Benefits

Increased Strength

Your hair is primarily made of keratin. While formaldehyde is the ingredient in a keratin treatment that does most of the heavy lifting, the treatment is also packing your hair with keratin and collagen, which are other essential proteins. "The keratin treatments that are out in the market now help to promote a better follicle," explains Roque. "We're pumping in natural keratin and collagen into the hair again, and these properties help build a good follicle."

Retained Texture and Volume

The only other chemical treatment I've tried is a relaxer, which left my hair pin straight. That's fabulous if you want pin-straight hair, but I love hair with a little more volume and movement. "Keratins are not ever going to straighten your hair," says Roque. "To the eye, it looks like it does, but it just softens your texture a bit." When wet, my hair will still coil up. But, the coil will be a touch looser and it will be easier to blow straight. So when my hair is straightened, it retains a touch of texture so it doesn't look limp.

Increased Moisture Retention

With a stronger follicle, Roque explains that your hair is better able to retain water in your hair. This is great news for me because I naturally have super dry hair. I can apply as many moisturizing, hydrating products as I want but it doesn't retain any of the moisture. Because keratin treatments create that armor around hair, its better able to accept and retain the moisture I give it, explains Roque.

Faster Blow-Dry

Although your hair will better retain moisture, water won't be holding on for dear life when you're trying to dry it. "When the surface is coated with the keratin, it speeds up your blow-dry time," says Roque. This means you won't need to apply as much heat and tension to your hair to dry it off.

Humidity Resistance

Because a keratin treatment creates a fortress around your strands, you don't have to worry about humidity ruining your look. "It's creating a barrier that [lasts] for a couple of months, reflecting away any kind of moisture or humidity," says Roque.

Smoother, Shinier Hair

With a stronger cuticle and more moisturized hair, you'll notice less frizz and more shine and elasticity. After my treatment, I couldn't stop touching my hair. Even though the treatment doesn't use conditioner and Roque applied so much heat, my hair was the softest it's ever been.

The Downsides of Keratin Treatments

High-Heat Exposure

Because keratin treatments are set with heat, a lot of heat at high temperatures is needed to complete the service. When done two or three times a year, this isn't a problem, as long as you're fine with cutting back on the heat you apply at home. However, if you're tethered to your curling iron or want your hair to look picture perfect on the daily, you're gonna suffer some heat damage.

Formaldehyde Exposure

Formaldehyde is the main ingredient in most keratin treatments. Modern keratin treatments use lower, safer concentrations than those of years past. Plus, the concentration of formaldehyde can be determined based on your hair type and needs. Some studies have loosely linked chemical straightening to increased rates of cancers, like uterine cancer. But, these studies are often based on correlation, not causation. Translation: There is no conclusive evidence to show chemical straightening causes detrimental health issues. However, it's still something to keep in mind, and you have to base your choices on what makes you comfortable. What definitely doesn't hurt is wearing a mask during the treatment and ensuring the location of your service is well-ventilated.

The Bottom Line

When it comes to styling my hair, I prioritize ease. I'd rather not spend the time attempting styles like wash-and-gos or twist-outs. So, for me, if my hair isn't in box braids, there's nothing easier than wearing my hair straight. After Roque gave me a keratin treatment, my hair was the softest and smoothest it's ever been. It lays flat but still has life and movement. I feel like I can breathe easier, and I don't have to worry about night sweats, workouts, or humidity ruining my style. Plus, I can maintain the look I love with minimal heat, allowing me to focus on hair health and growth.

As someone who loves a silky look and hates putting effort into my hair, a keratin treatment has been a true godsend. If you're in New York City, head over to Rob Petoom and let Roque work his magic. If not, find a Roque equivalent near you and bask in the glory of low-maintenance, moisturized, smooth, and healthy hair.