What Retinol Does to Your Skin, According to Dermatologists

As far as skincare ingredients go, retinol is certainly one of the most popular. Touted as an anti-aging hero, this vitamin A derivative is known for being a powerful anti-ager, a cell turnover booster, keeping acne under control, and improving elasticity. However, with the popularity comes a slew of misinformation that can make people wonder what retinol actually does and if it's right for them.

For example, a popular myth says retinol can't be used around the eyes, but in reality, it all depends on the formulation and a person's level of sensitivity. Conversely, some people get discouraged when they don't see quick enough results which can lead them to believe that retinol doesn't work, but as with most skincare ingredients, it takes time for skin to get used to it and react. We could talk about retinol myths and misconceptions all day, but instead, we're going to get into the science of it all.

To learn more about what retinol does, what it is, how it works, etc., we tapped board-certified dermatologists, Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, MD, and Marnie Nussbaum, MD. Below, they break down everything there is to know about hero ingredient, including why it sometimes makes your skin look worse before it makes it look better than ever.

What is Retinol?

Retinol is a vitamin A molecule that falls under the umbrella group of retinoids. There are a few different forms of retinol, each targeting a different concern, making them ideal for a variety of skin issues from aging to dark spots. According to Dr. Nussbaum, retinols are the MVP’s of your skincare regimen. "Retinols are vitamin A derivatives that are extremely effective at preventing and minimizing fine lines and wrinkles," she says. They've also been proven to increase collagen production and increase skin elasticity.

What Does Retinol Do?

Retinol has a slew of benefits and functions, many of which target common skin care concerns such as uneven skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles, and clogged pores.

• Refines skin texture: "Retinols increase skin cell turnover and slough away dead skin cells," says Dr. Nussbaum. "By triggering the skin cells on the outermost layer of skin to turnover at a faster rate, new cells can generate, resulting in smoother, more even skin."
• Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles: As previously mentioned, because retinols induce cellular renewal, they can help with increasing collagen production and skin elasticity. According to Dr. Nussbaum, they also encourage new skin cell formation as well as the production of collagen and elastin, which will help reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
• Clears clogged pores: If you have oily or acne-prone skin, retinol can serve as an effective blemish-fighting treatment. Retinol helps to "balance sebum production, consequently shrinking the pores to prevent them from getting clogged and inflamed," says Dr. Nussbaum.

How It Works

So, how exactly does this miracle ingredient work? Nussbaum explains that "retinol works deep within the skin where it boosts collagen synthesis, increases elasticity, and repairs connective tissue." When you first start using a retinol or a prescription retinoid, you'll go through a process called "retinization," a period of dry, red, peeling skin. "Upon application of retinol, you are essentially re-training your skin cells to turnover at a much faster rate," explains Nussbaum. "There's a 'learning curve,' or adjustment period, for the skin during the first several weeks of use, which is why many people may experience these irritating and inflammatory side effects." Don't freak out, though—this is all part of the process, and you need to stick with it in order to get to a point where your skin starts to clear.

How to Use Retinol

In the case of this powerhouse ingredient, less is more. Here's exactly how often to use retinol.

1. Nussbaum recommends applying a pea-sized amount to the skin every few nights and titrate up based on skin tolerance.
2. Upwards titration may be key to maintaining healthy skin and compliance (and minimizing irritation). Irritation may also be mitigated by mixing a pea-sized amount of retinol with your moisturizer prior to applying to the skin.
3. You can apply all over the face, but avoid applying too close to the lash line to avoid it getting into the eyes and causing irritation.
4. Avoid using retinoid around the eyes, unless it is a product specifically formulated for the eyes

Levin recommends that if the retinization process is intolerable for your skin, try applying a pea-size amount of the retinol or retinoid first, waiting a few minutes, and then applying a moisturizer to combat any dryness or flaking. Then, by week 12 you may start to see a marked difference in your skin's texture.

How Long Does it Take to See Results From Retinol?

Many who use retinol and don't see quick results wonder, "does retinol work?" The answer is yes, but if you're looking for an overnight treatment, you won't find it in retinol. "Results will depend on the potency levels found in the formula and, interestingly, some people convert retinol into retinoic acid more quickly than others," says Nussbaum, noting that the skin typically takes between three to four weeks to adapt to consistent use. "Diligent use of Retin-A is needed for two to three months to see visible results. Pending potency, OTC retinol can take up to six months to see results." That's not to say you won't see any benefits upon the first few uses. Nussbaum explains that in the short term, the benefits are that your skin will be exfoliated of dead skin cells and your pores will be unclogged.

If you're using retinol to reduce wrinkles, the process can be lengthy. A review of retinoids indicates that most individuals see a significant decrease in wrinkles after about three months of use. Over time, retinol help boosts collagen and thicken the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles begin to form, so long-term consistency will be worth the results. When used longer than six months, Nussbaum says that "you’ll start to benefit from new collagen and elastin production and a noticeable reduction of fine lines wrinkles and dark spots."

Which Retinol Products Should You Use?

If the mere thought of the slew of retinol products available makes you want to look elsewhere for a skin-reviving product, hear us out. Nussbaum breaks it down for us: Retinoids are a group of vitamin A derivatives while retinols and Retin-A are types of retinoids derived from vitamin A. "In order for retinoids to work their magic, they have to be converted to retinoic acid or Retin-A (Retin-A is actually the brand name for the medication tretinoin)," she says. "This will bind to skin cell receptors and give a call to action."

She explains that retinol is another form of retinoid, which is earlier in the cascade process—the process begins with retinyl palmitate, then retinol, retinaldehyde, and finally retinoic acid. "Retinol are the gentlest on the skin and least potent alternative, however, if your skin is tolerating retinols well and you aren't getting the desired results, you can up the ante to retinaldehyde, which can be more potent and effective at jumpstarting your skin cells." And if you're looking for the most potent option available, you'll find it in retinoic acid (or Retin-A, a prescription alternative).

La Roche-Posay Redermic R Eyes $50.00

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Nussbaum recommends this eye cream as it contains a trifecta of dark circle-combatting, depuffing ingredients: pure retinol, gradual release retinol, and caffeine. "I recommend applying it along with a sunscreen in the morning or you can also use it nightly," she says.

Shani Darden Retinol Reform $88.00

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Combining alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and retinol is the secret to this award-winning formula. Apart from working as a stellar anti-aging product over time, it also helps smooth out bumpy texture overnight.

Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Moisturizer SPF 30 $33.50

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Nussbaum touts this moisturizer as it features long-lasting retinol—aka the gold standard in anti-aging ingredients—which is meant to help minimize fine lines and wrinkles.