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Photo: Courtesy of Mizu Salon
Believe it or not, children of the '80s: Perms are making a serious comeback. Perm-inspired hairstyles were seen on the Fall 2013 runways at Marc Jacobs, Lela Rose, and Creatures of the Wind. We tapped Mizu co-owner and former Bumble and Bumble stylist Damien Santiago to discuss the benefits of a modern perm or body wave and why so many salon clients are requesting an updated version. Plus, he explains the best and worst perm and body wave candidates, how to ensure your perm looks contemporary, and what products to use to maintain it.
ELLE: Talk to us about the benefits of perms—which hair types are they best for?
Damian Santiago: Soft, wash-and-wear hair is a major benefit of perms and the reason many clients choose this option.
When done properly, curls and waves have a softening effect on many women's features. Another option is a body wave [a perm that makes waves, not curls] to create more volume and texture. It provides more fullness when styled and blow-dried. The right candidates for perms are those looking for that dramatic change in texture, be it curls or waves. I often hear comments such as, "I don't want to have to blow-dry my hair as much anymore" and "I want something that requires less work."
ELLE: Who isn't a good perm candidate?
DS: Anyone with super baby-fine hair should not get a perm. Clients with lots of highlights or bleached hair are generally not good candidates. Be careful not to over-perm. The average head of hair grows about a half-inch per month. So if you are getting a second perm within one to three months or you are re-perming over 80 to 90 percent of the previous one, this is way too soon to avoid damage. If done properly, some perms can last as long as a year. They may be tighter in texture, but grow out gracefully and soften up as time goes by. Many clients enjoy the different stages of texture that they get to experience.
ELLE: How do we keep from looking like an extra on the set of Full House and ensure that our perm looks modern?
DS: Consult with your stylist. Bring images of looks you don't want as well as images of textures you love. Also make sure you see a specialist who will be honest with you and will provide you with real info on what to expect. There are really beautiful options available that will last and do not compromise the quality and health of the hair.
ELLE: We haven't uttered the words "body wave" since The Babysitters Club's Stacey McGill famously had one in the book series. Are body waves they still a thing? For whom would you recommend them?
DS: They are more popular than ever. Many of our clients request soft, natural waves. Body waves involve a variety of wrapping styles and larger perm rod choices. They are suitable for those looking for a soft, beachy result.
ELLE: What is the process like for a perm?
DS: The perm process includes clear steps (consultation, proper cleaning, and conditioning) to ensure perfect results. Also the appropriate haircut needs to be in place to complement the desired result. Perms involve wrapping of the rods, chemical processing, cuticle cleansing, and finally, sealing of the cuticle. If they are done correctly, a beautiful perm can last up to a year. It will grow out and change during that time, but should retain texture and softness.
ELLE: What products and tips can you share for maintaining a perm?
DS: I recommend using a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, as well as a monthly deep-conditioning treatment. As for styling products, leave-in conditioners and oil-based products like grooming cream and Bumble and Bumble Brilliantine will weigh down the wave. Mousse and curl creams will add volume. Avoid gels as they result in a crunchy finish that no one wants to touch. One of my favorite product cocktails is Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray with Bumble and Bumble Curl Conscious Defining Cream layered over it. Then, softly dry hair using a diffuser on low.
