Fashion Throwback

The Forgotten History Behind the Choker Necklace

An updated take on this '90s-inspired accessory.
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SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - MAY 19: A guest wearing a blue white striped button shirt, black choker, mini skirt and Celine bag at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Resort 17 Collections at Carriageworks on May 19, 2016 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Christian Vierig/WireImage)WireImage

Raise your hand if you’ve seen a choker today. Two? Three? Four? It’s safe to say this piece of jewelry has been seen everywhere this year, from the Paris runways to the streets of New York City.

The trend has been a favorite among models and pop stars alike, appearing around the necks of Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, and Rihanna. Even little North has her own custom Fallon choker, while Taylor Swift was seen wearing four different versions of the neckpiece in one day. First daughter Malia Obama is a well-known choker fan, having recently wore one at her father's Farewell Address. So what’s the big deal over a thin piece of ribbon? It’s definitely on trend with what we’ve seen on the runways: For spring 2017, Maria Grazia Chiuri paired her famous "We Should All Be Feminists" shirt with a simple black choker for Dior, while Gucci's Alessandro Michele sent down a bejeweled version of the neckpiece.

The choker’s association with the '90s has made the accessory the must-have piece of the season, but the fitted necklace is known for creating bigger sensations centuries ago. Noblewomen in the Middle Ages wore chokers that featured a pendant stamped with Saint Sebastian motifs to protect themselves from the bubonic plague. During the French Revolution, young women attending the secret bals des victimes (or victims’ balls) wore red ribbons around their necks to mimic the appearance of having been guillotined, expressing solidarity with the rebels who had been executed during the Reign of Terror.

Malia Obama at the Presidential Farewell Address.

Getty Images

In the nineteenth century, black ribbon chokers were favored by ballerinas, as they gave the desired appearance of an elongated neck. Parisian prostitutes also wore a similar neckpiece, as depicted in Manet’s Olympia. Today, chokers are best known for their connections with '90s style icons: The title characters in Romy and Michele's High School Reunion wore them, while Cher Horowitz accessorized her prep-school-chic outfits with a fitted neckpiece in Clueless. Gwyneth Paltrow famously donned a diamond choker when she accepted her Oscar in 1999.

Cara Delevingne

Dave Benett/Getty Images for Cha

Versatile and easy to wear, the choker can be an eye-catching feminine accessory for day and night. For a modest look that doesn’t scream throwback, New York-based stylist Genevieve Espantman suggests matching the color of your choker to the rest of your outfit. “Make it monochromatic—so if you’re wearing an all-white, all-black, or all-navy look, pair it with [a choker of the same hue],” she tells Allure. To make a choker office-ready, Espantman recommends wearing a version accentuated with lace or tiny beads. After dark, opt for a bejeweled neckpiece sprinkled with diamonds or crystals. “Make it the feature of your outfit,” says Espantman.

For a DIY take on the trend, emulate the ballerinas of the nineteenth century by wrapping a simple black ribbon around your neck. Katharine Brandes, the creative director of apparel brand BB Dakota, suggests buying suede or braided leather cord in bulk on Amazon, then cutting it to the length of your liking. You can tie it like a bow or secure an ornamental clasp for a bolo necklace-like effect. For history buffs and children of the '90s who grew up idolizing the Spice Girls and Britney Spears, the opportunity to embrace this token of nostalgia is too good to pass up.