In the era of instant plumping masks and two-minute facials, it’s hard to imagine not speeding through your beauty routine. Yet lately there’s been a resurgence of interest around facial steaming—the old-school ritual that involves immersing your face in a cloud of warm vapors while you simply breathe . . . for at least five minutes. Long considered a homeopathic remedy for clearing out your pores and softening your skin, the practice delivers more than a supernatural glowing complexion. Steaming has gained traction among a new breed of herbalists as a self-care exercise that requires you to unplug, sit still, and be present in the moment.
Sarah Buscho, cofounder of Bay Area, California–based Earth Tu Face, steams once a week to keep her skin balanced. “I boil about six cups of water on the stove, and grab two large towels and a mixture of dried or fresh botanicals,” she says. Her go-to recipe combines two tablespoons each of rose petals, stinging nettle leaves, and calendula flowering tops; one tablespoon of rosemary; and one teaspoon of eucalyptus leaves for a detoxifying blend that seals in moisture and brings down inflammation. She places this medley in a large ceramic bowl and pours the hot water over it, letting everything steep and cool down for three minutes.
“Next, I put a towel under the bowl and create a tent by sitting with my face over the steaming brew, about 18 inches away, and cover my head and bowl with the other towel.” This, Buscho says, creates a mini sanctuary where she “just hangs out” for five minutes. “The steam releases the essential oils of the plants and allows them to gently interact with your skin as you release impurities,” she explains.
Brooklyn herbalist and founder of Mullein & Sparrow Anit Hora considers facial steaming a self-care moment that soothes her skin—and psyche. “I like to take this time to relax and reflect,” she says, adding that “it’s a great time to meditate.” She infuses her boiling water with a calming assortment of organic lavender, chamomile, comfrey, licorice root, and other botanicals, which she’s conveniently bottled in her Facial Steam blend. As a bonus, any products you apply post-steam tend to absorb better; Hora, for her part, usually reaches for masks. “A clay mask is a great option as it has the ability to cleanse and also cool down the skin. Then I like to mist with a toner and apply a face serum or oil.”
When part of your regular skin-care practice, the long-term benefits of steaming can be significant, says Washington, D.C., dermatologist Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D., of Capital Laser & Skin Care. “Steam helps to increase oil production to moisturize skin, and it can bring a nice, healthy glow to dull skin,” she says. The ritual is safe for all, except those who are prone to redness or have rosacea (in which case the heat should be avoided), and can be done for up to 10 minutes once a week, says Tanzi. To get started, here are the essentials you’ll need for your next healing, at-home steam.