Acne sucks. And if you've got it, you know how frustrating slapping on a full face of makeup can be each morning. Between the redness, flakes, shine, and straight-up tenderness, your skin can feel more like a paint-by-number hot zone than a normal face. So we chatted with Robin Black, a makeup artist and the founder of Beauty Is Boring, for her best tips for applying makeup on acne-prone skin.
Prep, prep, and then prep some more. "Having properly exfoliated and moisturized skin is the most important step in creating a smooth, healthy looking complexion," says Black. I mean, you wouldn't paint a non-sanded table, right? Still, don't go overboard on the exfoliating, which can only further irritate zits. We like Olay Pore Minimizing Cleanser + Scrub, which is gentle enough to be used every morning.
Stock up on Scotch tape. So you overdid it on the acne cream and your skin is flakier than a croissant. Surprisingly, foundation and flakes don't mix. "If you're in a rush, try patting your skin with Scotch tape," says Black. "The tape will gently remove the flaky bits without damaging your skin. Then massage a dab of your moisturizer over the dry patch, let it sit for a few minutes, and go on with your makeup."
Use a light hand. "People think acne and acne scars require heavy, full-coverage foundation, but too many layers will actually emphasize your skin's texture and draw attention to acne," says Black. Instead, stick with a sheer foundation, like BareMinerals Pure Brightening Serum Foundation, to "show off the parts of your skin that don't have acne or scarring," and save the actual concealing to, you know, concealers.
Embrace color correctors. "If I still see discoloration from acne scars after I've applied a layer of sheer foundation or tinted moisturizer, I go back in and paint over each scar with a color corrector, then tap it with my finger to blend," says Black, who loves the Make Up For Ever 5 Camouflage Cream Palette for blemishes and scars. "Peach, tangerine, and deeper orange shades are best at neutralizing acne scars, which tend to have cooler undertones."
Add some brightness. After you've dutifully added your primer, concealer, color correctors, foundation, blush, a light dusting of powder (see why thin, sheer layers are important?), your skin might look a little…dull. "Don't forget to put some glow back into your complexion by applying a subtle highlighter to your cheekbones, Cupid's bow, and brow bone at the end." Our favorite: Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Champagne Pop, which looks good on every skin tone (we should know—we tested it on almost every skin tone).
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