Are you over-exfoliating?

Most of us are aware of the need to regularly rid our face - and body - of dead skin cells.

Otherwise the layers of dead cells we shed every day can leave our complexion looking dull and lack lustre and can cause congestion and unwanted break-outs - especially for anyone suffering from oily or acne-prone skin.

Oily skins tend to expel an increased number of dead cells and if these are not effectively removed, they can block the pores, trapping any excess oil and bacteria with them.

As we remove unwanted dead skin, the regeneration of new, healthy cells is encouraged and we are left with an overall brighter and healthier-looking complexion.

But having worked so hard to educate us all about the virtues of exfoliating regularly, experts are now worried that many of the beauty-conscious are now over-exfoliating their skin - stripping away valuable layers of healthy cells and reducing the skin's natural defences.

This concern has come about mainly as a result of the increased use of Alpha-hydroxy Acids (AHA's) in skincare products.

What are AHA's?

AHA's penetrate the skin and gently dissolve the protein bond that binds skin cells together. The dead skin is then shed easily.

They also help to thicken the epidermal layer and increase the density of natural collagen - the magical stuff that keeps skin looking young and supple.

So what's the problem?

Nothing, as long as you don't over-do it, according to Candice Saville from the International Dermal Institute.

'Products containing hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid and lactic acid produce excellent instant results which is why they have become such a popular addition to many skincare products', she says.

They are remarkably gentle and non-abrasive when used correctly and penetrate into the follicle to remove dead cells rather than simply lifting the ones sitting on the surface like other exfoliators.

'The problem lies not with the hydroxy acids themselves but with the number of products you use which contain them', says Saville.

'Many people may be unwittingly exposing their skin to too much exfoliation by buying cleansers, washes and scrubs that their skin really doesn't need.'

For example with Neutrogena's Deep Clean range of products if you use the excellent facial wash (£4.99/200ml) with added salicylic acid you won't need a separate buffing product.

'More and more layers of skin are removed, leaving it very sensitive - particularly to the other active ingredients in our cosmetics that are suddenly able to penetrate more deeply than before.'

What product should I choose?

Before you splash out on a new exfoliator, Candice recommends seeking some expert advice.

'A skincare expert will be able to tell you exactly what kind of skin you have and which method of exfoliation will work best for you.

'For example, a relatively normal skin will benefit from most exfoliation methods, while a very sensitive complexion needs a very gentle and non-abrasive touch'.

For sensitive skins, good ingredients to look out for are pineapple and papaya - both containing the enzyme bromelain which very gently digests the dead cells from the skin's surface.

Try BeneFit Pineapple Face Polish (£19.50) or Kiehls Pineapple and Papaya Facial Scrub (£15.50/2 oz at Liberty and Space NK).

As a general rule Candice advises against using harsh scrubs - whatever your skin type. If you do prefer a scrub to a lotion or cleansing cloth, stick to something that contains smooth spherical particles rather than sharp edged exfoliants like apricot kernels or walnut.

Good, gentle scrubs include Clarins Gentle Exfoliating Refiner (£19) and Estée Lauder So Polished (£18).

The Honey and Almond Face Scrub from Australian skincare company, Nutrimetics (£16.95 - 01908 262 020) is so gentle you can even eat it (not that you'd want to!)

Check the label on all your skincare products to make sure that you are not bombarding your complexion with too many skin-sloughing ingredients.

Always find out about any product before you buy and don't be tempted by an advertisers hype. It may work wonders on other peoples' skin but not necessarily on yours.

To find a qualified skincare advisor near you, contact the International Dermal Institute - 0800 591 818