The unlikely stylistic alliance of the England football manager (Gareth Southgate) and a fictional Brummy gangster (Tommy Shelby) have helped push waistcoats back into the public eye.
This year, during the Euros, waistcoats underwent a revival thanks to the so-called “Gareth Southgate effect”, but this wasn’t for the first time. First seen strutting the side-lines in a waistcoat during the 2018 world cup, Southgate could be held responsible for Marks & Spencer reporting that sales of waistcoats had increased by 35 per cent in that period. It’s an extraordinary statistic in an age of plummeting high-street profits and the popularity of lax, modern suiting where the waistcoat isn’t really a thought.
Here are the do’s and don’ts of wearing a waistcoat, plus a range of superb options.
DO wear it as part of a three-piece suit
The primary function of a waistcoat is to provide both a sense of depth and formality to an outfit. The best way to wear a waistcoat, therefore, is beneath the jacket of a suit. Look to British tailoring house Thom Sweeney and one of its beautifully cut three-piece suits (teamed with a trademark scoop-neck waistcoat) for inspiration.
DON’T ever wear one with jeans
Less dad at a party, more ex-primary school teacher with an ankle monitor. Avoid.
DO opt for a knitted waistcoat
Somewhere between a waistcoat and a gilet, a knitted button-up jerkin will add some textural interest to a more casual outfit and is a good option if you want to look smart, but not too smart. Wear with some smart pleated trousers in a tonal shade, a deconstructed blazer that matches your trousers and a grandad shirt in a light hue.
DON’T pick something because it’s ‘jazzy' or ‘funky'
Items of personality clothing – pork pie hats, colourful pocket squares, loud socks – do precisely the opposite of what their wearer hopes they will achieve. It’s the same with jazzy waistcoats – your personality is enough on its own without that piece of over-designed midriff coverage.
DO wear a double-breasted waistcoat
“I think he looks great – particularly when he’s winning,” says the owner of waistcoat specialist Favourbrook, Oliver Spencer, of Gareth Southgate. “If he wanted to smarten the look up a bit I would recommend he switches to a double-breasted waistcoat.” Smart man, that Spencer. A double-breasted waistcoat (though most commonly reserved for morning dress) will create an interesting interplay in the space between a shirt and a single-breasted jacket. A great option for more formal occasions.
DON’T do the bottom button up (of a single-breasted waistcoat)
In the deleted scenes of Peaky Blinders, Tommy has called a family meeting to address a serious issue. “Always leave the bottom button undone. Fucking always,” he growls at them, while they stare at the floor in shame. Arthur looks up, wide-eyed, “Maybe...” he begins. Tommy shoots his gun through the ceiling. “No... Arthur,” returning him a steely look.
DO wear your waistcoat with a proper shirt
Because wearing a waistcoat with a T-shirt is akin to wearing flip flops with a suit. Only worse.
Below are the best waistcoats money can buy you right now
Reiss has achieved a waistcoat fit for travel. They have done this by leaving a little stretch in the fabric so you can relax into the seat as the miles pass you by. The navy body combined with black buttons mean it will be easy to style on the road, but it will look fantastic paired with the remainder of the suit, too. £128. reiss.com
Departing from the tailoring-only end of the waistcoat’s capabilities, we encounter a piece that is so devilishly stylish that it doesn’t need any shirt nor T-shirt accompaniment; it holds its own. We love the unique plissé, or pleated, texture of this black waistcoat. It’s an example of innovation, so go snap it up. £285. At selfridges.com
A dove grey waistcoat matches well with the traditional grey trousers of a morning suit. The easy, pastel tone resides in a golden zone of formality and style, and blends with six grey mother-of-pearl buttons that fasten this piece together. At the rear, the cream satin is soft, refined and fully adjustable. £255. newandlingwood.com
The unctuous piping that adorns the perimeter of this waistcoat adds panache to what is an already handsome item. The rich navy velvet exterior covers the waistcoat to such an extent that even the buttons are swaddled in the stuff. Worn with black tie it will sit slightly off colour, bringing depth, intrigue and class to your outfit. £190. favourbrook.com
The loose double breast construction of this tan beige Gucci piece gives it an irresistible nonchalance. It knows it doesn’t have to conform, or care, for it to look stunning. The waistcoat comes with its own shawl lapel and is fully lined with satin twill meaning that practically and style-wise, no jacket is needed. £690. At ssense.com
For a slightly lighter navy shade, try this tonal check waistcoat by bastions of high-street suave: Ted Baker. The 100% wool construction means that its naturally breathable for when things get tense in the boardroom, but still providing insulation later on walking out the office and into the icy breeze. £130. At johnlewis.com
The chic simplicity of this black wool waistcoat and its sharp hem are the elements that make it stand out. The fabric is 2% elastane meaning a slight leniency in its movement, allowing you to embody the brand’s SS22 dance-centric show, and to stretch and leap as you see fit. £169. tigerofsweden.com
Ah! A tweed waistcoat. What could be more traditionally British? The satin back panel is a glorious bronze/golden colour that matches the green hue wonderfully. Meanwhile, the quadruple vented pockets, single breast construction and speckled nature of the material polish off the idea that a tweed jacket is a great idea. Especially now the temperature is taking a dive. £295. At mrporter.com
We’re not mad at Universal’s more casual “field waistcoat” one bit. While it may deviate from the formal edicts of the waistcoat, using it in a casual way can spruce up your outfits if you don’t want to bundle around a coat, plus the lack of arms gives a sense of freedom. The large front pockets make it highly practical, too. £95. At endclothing.com
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