I've never let my cowlick get in the way of my love for bangs, but that doesn't mean I haven't suffered for my stubbornness. Mere hours after thinking I've believably hidden my cowlick, I'll look in the mirror to see that it's made a weird part in my fringe or spouted up through them like a tenacious little fountain. So yes, I was pretty excited when L.A.-based hairstylist and cofounder of The Beauty Department Kristin Ess told me exactly how she tames her own cowlick, as well as what she considers the best and only way to blow-dry bangs.
Blow-dry immediately: "Once the follicle has had a chance to air-dry, it's also had a chance to set," says Ess.
Not just any brush will do:"You have to use a round brush that has good tension. For bangs I always use the Spornette G-36XL Porcupine Brush. We refer to it as the bang buster.' It grabs every hair."
Proper positioning: Starting wherever the cowlick is, put the thumb of the hand that's holding the brush underneath the section of bangs you're going to blow-dry. Then put the brush on top of the thumb, so that you're squeezing the bangs between them. "The thumb is underneath to get extra tension because you have got to pull on the follicle from the root, " Ess explains. "Even the best heavy brush is not going to be able to do it alone. You have to have the thumb there."
The right moves: While directing the blow-dryer down the hair shaft, first pull the bangs to the right, then to the left, then straight down, making sure to keep the tension on them the whole time. Repeat until bangs are dry.
"Everyone I've shown this technique to has been like, 'Oh, that was it,'" says Ess. "Everything is different now."
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