How to Paint a Wall Like a Pro

Getting ready to paint your walls? Hint: A properly primed surface makes all the difference.

Paint supplies
Photo:

Getty

Painting the walls in your home is one of those DIY projects that most homeowners can tackle, and it'll cost far less than hiring pros to do it. Plus, there are so many great paint brand options to choose from, giving your walls a refresh is easy. But you'll want to study up a bit before you take on this project. Using proper painting techniques—and the right painting tools—will give you a professional finish.

You'll see that our steps start with getting the wall ready. It may be tempting to skip ahead to the painting part, but prepping the wall appropriately is essential for getting professional-looking results. So gather your supplies...it's time to make your wall look brand new!

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Paint roller
  • 2-inch angled paintbrush
  • Extension pole
  • Ladder

Materials

  • Cellulose sponge
  • Dishwashing liquid
  • Painter's tape
  • Primer
  • Paint
  • Paint tray

Instructions

How to Paint a Wall

  1. Choose Your Color

    Choosing a paint color

    Looking at swatches in store is fun, but to figure out what will look best in your space, you'll want to take home a sample can. Paint a little area on your wall or walls and take note of what it looks like during the day vs. at night and in a dark corner vs. near a window. You'll want to make sure you love it as much at 10:00 AM as you do at 3:00 PM! Some companies, like Clare, can send you peel-and-stick vinyl swatches to test with, which means you don't have to paint your walls at all. Win! Once you've chosen your color, make sure you buy enough. The general rule of thumb is one gallon per 350-400 square feet.

  2. Clean the Walls

    Woman wiping down a wall with a sponge.

    Maryna Terletska/ Getty

    • Use a broom to clear out hard-to-reach dust and cobwebs in the corners of the ceiling.
    • Vacuum baseboards and window sills with a hand-held vacuum or bristle attachment. Then run a wet cloth over these areas.
    • Using a large cellulose sponge and a solution of water mixed with a few drops of mild dishwashing liquid, clean the walls to remove any dust, dirt, and grease.
    • Wipe down the walls with a damp cloth to remove soap residue.
  3. Tape the Trim

    Person applying painter's tape to the wall.

    Getty

    Use blue painter's tape (not masking tape) to protect areas you don't want your paint to get on, such as trim, molding, doorknobs, window frames, and door frames. Run long strips of tape just inside the outer edges of these areas. (The outer edges of the tape should lie exactly where the wall meets the trim, covering the parts of the trim that your roller or paintbrush might hit when you paint.)

  4. Pour Primer in a Tray

    Pouring primer into a paint tray.

    Svetlana Popova/ Getty

    • If you're using tarps for the floor, set them out now.
    • Line the paint tray with a plastic liner or tin foil to make cleanup easier later.
    • Pour in enough paint so that it almost fills the well toward the bottom of the tray without covering the angled portion of the tray where the ridges are.
  5. Brush the Corners

    Painting corner of a wall with a paintbrush

    Penpak Ngamsathain/ Getty

    • Start with the corners—the areas the roller won't reach. Using a 2-inch angled paintbrush, dip the bristles into the paint about a third of the way. Gently slap the insides of the can to remove excess paint.
    • Brush on paint around the trim and in the corners of the walls with the brush. Extend out 2 to 3 inches from windows, doors, and moldings.
  6. Roll the Primer Onto the Wall

    Someone rolling primer or white paint onto walls.

    Prapat Aowaskorn/ Getty

    • Dip your roller into the primer, rolling it back and forth across the tray's ridges a few times to remove any excess and prevent drips. Make sure the roller gets evenly coated.
    • Run the roller up and down a section of the wall, applying primer until the section is fully covered. Continue until your wall is fully covered, reapplying primer to the roller as needed.
    • Follow the manufacturer's drying instructions, which you'll find on the can, to make sure the primer is completely dry before applying paint.
  7. Roll on Paint in a "W" Shape

    painting wall with a roller
    • Fill a paint tray with paint and dip your roller into it, removing the excess.
    • Roll the paint onto the wall in a 3-by-3-foot "W" shape. Working your way back across that "w" without lifting the roller, fill in empty patches until that section of wall is fully covered.
    • Continue, adding more paint to the roller as needed, until the whole wall is painted.
    • Consider using an extension pole (one of the common techniques used by pro painters), even on the walls, to make it easier to refill your paint roller and cover your wall more quickly.
  8. Remove the Painter's Tape

    Man removing painters tape from baseboards.

    Getty Images

    Peel off the tape while the paint is still wet (ideally about an hour after you've finished painting) to avoid accidentally removing any dried paint along with it. Leaving the painter's tape on too long is one of the most common painting mistakes people make.

  9. Know When Your Paint Is Dry

    Different kinds of paint dry at different speeds—and they'll feel dry to the touch before they're ready for you to lay on an extra coat. A latex-based paint will feel dry to the touch in about an hour, and be ready for a second coat in four hours. An oil-based paint takes six hours to feel dry, and you should wait a day to apply a second coat.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Can I just paint over old paint?

    Yes, if you're using the same type of paint. For example, if you're planning to paint using an oil-based paint on top of an oil-based paint, then you're good to go. If you're using latex-based paint over oil, or vice versa, you'll need a layer or two of primer in between to make sure the new paint can bond to the wall. You'll also need to use primer if you're painting over a dark color with a lighter color, so that it won't continue to show through your new layers of paint.

  • Should I hire a professional painter or paint the wall myself?

    It depends on the condition of your walls. If your walls are smooth, DIY! If your walls have a couple of dents and dings but can be repaired with a little bit of spackle, we still say DIY. If the walls are in poor condition and can't be fixed with spackle, it's time to call in a pro. You should also consider calling in a pro to tackle spaces with high ceilings and if you're using a specialty paint finish like lacquer or Roman plaster.

  • What type of paint should I use?

    When shopping for interior paint, there are an astounding number of options, but no matter what color you choose, take a beat to consider the finish. Here's when to use each one.


    Flat: This matte style has an almost chalk-like look. It's great to use on damaged walls because it doesn't reflect light, and therefore hides imperfections. It is, however, less durable than other finishes, so you'll want to use it in a low-traffic space.


    Eggshell/Satin: This probably the most commonly used interior paint. It's a bit more reflective than flat (so it will make unwanted texture on walls show a bit more) but it's a lot more durable than flat so it's great for any room in the house.


    Semigloss: The shinier paint gets, the more durable it gets, so semigloss is another step in that direction. People like to use it in bathrooms and kitchens because it's easy to wipe down. Because it reflects light well, it also has the ability to make a dark room feel a bit brighter, so it's perfect in a small powder room.


    High-gloss: Think super shiny. Using this finish makes the paint and walls the star of a room, so you only want to use this if your walls are up to snuff and you're ready for something bold. They're the easiest to clean (just wipe!) so they make a great choice for cabinets and trim.


Related Articles