There’s something about the season changing that calls for brand new hair. Whether that means a choppy lob, or a totally new hair color (we’re looking at you, Kylie Jenner), that’s a personal choice. For me, it meant going as red as the changing autumn leaves. I’ve pretty much been every hair color under the rainbow, from bright blonde to the blackest of blacks. But, red has been an adventure that I wasn’t totally expecting. I’d heard that every fiery shade fades fast, but I didn’t fully believe it until I washed my hair for the first time after dyeing it and saw my shower turn into a scene from a Halloween haunted house. Still, I’ve been having fun with this shocking hue, and I’m not ready to let it fade away just yet. So, I caught up with top NYC colorists Aura Friedman, of Sally Hershberger Downtown, and Rachel Bodt, of Cutler SoHo, to come up with a red hair care plan that you, too, can use.
Why does red hair fade so quickly?
“The red hair molecule is the largest of the dye molecules, so it can slip out of the cuticle faster with each wash,” says Friedman. Because this crimson color is inevitably going to leave you sooner than others, Bodt explains that it might take a few attempts to really get it to stick to your hair.
Are there certain hair types or colors that hold onto red pigment better than others?
Not completely. “I find that everyone’s hair color is completely different in this category, and that it really all depends on how you take care of it,” says Bodt. “Everyone has underlying pigment which tends to be anywhere from red, to orange, to yellow, so it’s a matter of working with what you have.”
How long should you wait before washing your hair after you’ve gone red?
“As long as possible. You need to allow the cuticle to close and stay closed. As soon as you shampoo, the warm water swells the cuticle and shampoo plus scrubbing roughs it up, which makes you lose the red dye molecules,” says Friedman. That might mean waiting up to at least three days. Dry shampoo will be your BFF, and you’ll be able to hold onto your new shade much longer.
Is it true that you should wash your hair with cold water?
“Cold water is key!” says Bodt. “When you use hot water, the color steams right out.” So, get used to some shiver time when it comes to showering.
What should you do to get the longest staying power?“I always layer the color,” says Friedman. “I start with a single process, then a gloss, and then I finish with a cool rinse to close the cuticle.”
What products should you use for maintenance?
“I send every redhead home with Pureology Reviving Red shampoo and conditioner; it’s great because it is sulfate-free and vegan. Then, for between shampoos, I make sure clients have a great cleansing conditioner like Wen or Pureology Hydrate Cleansing Conditioner. These help to clean hair without stripping tone and luster,” says Bodt. Friedman's color savers? “Add a cap of apple cider vinegar to one gallon of cool water, and rinse your hair with it. The acid forces the cuticle to close. I also recommend the Shu Uemura Color Lustre shampoo and mask, Sally Hershberger 24K shampoo, and any cleansing cream.”
Also, remember that mineral buildup and heating tools are fade offenders. “If you use blow-dryers and heating tools often, use a heat protector like Redken Argan Oil or Pureology Colour Fanatic 21 Benefits Spray,” says Bodt. And invest in a shower filter, like the one from T3, to combat mineral buildup.
Do you recommend any at-home color-depositing treatments?
“Yes! Use the Davines Red and Copper Alchemic Conditioners,” says Friedman. But she warns against using at-home glosses, or boxed color. “These will build up, get dark, and look dull.” And who wants that? Bodt says your colorist can craft a custom conditioner for you, or she recommends Pureology Reviving Red Enhancers in either Reviving Red or Copper.
How often should you go to the salon for touch-ups?
Both Friedman and Bodt agree that four to eight weeks is the magic timeframe. But, if you tend to push your appointments as much as possible, intermittent glosses will allow you to still see red.
