Rules For Mixing Shirt & Tie Patterns
Three Fail-Safe Rules For Matching Your Shirt And Tie Like A True Gentleman
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During the 17th century, King Louis XIII hired Croatian mercenaries who wore a piece of cloth around the top of their jackets, and before long, the humble necktie was born into mainstream fashion. Mr. Louis liked them so much, that the necktie even became a mandatory accessory worn at Royal gatherings. In fact, to honor the Croatian soldiers, he went on to call the neckties of his time “La Cravat,” the French word for necktie.
Over time, the cravat morphed from an often complicated and flouncy neck piece into a streamlined design that is the modern tie. Today cravats are mostly worn at formal events or special occasions, like weddings or business lunches, which merit a statement accessory. Some fashion-forward gentlemen, however, manage to pull off the tie as a style staple for daily wear. Alas, to each his own.
RELATED: How To Tie A Tie
The modern tie is a long, thin ribbon of fabric that’s tied around the neck, over the collar of a dress shirt. Ties and shirts go hand-in-hand, and just as the necktie has its own history, the dress shirt also has a story to tell. While they're ubiquitous nowadays, dress shirts came to be during the Victorian era, their style-cred going back about 200 years. A crisp white dress shirt was thought of as a symbol of distinction and power since only wealthy men could afford to clean or replace them. As a matter of fact, it wasn’t until the 19th century that proper shirts became affordable and widely available enough to take its place as an essential component of menswear, defined not only by color, but fit, fabric and detailing too.
Fast-forward to today and you only need to look to the phrases “white collar” and “blue collar” to understand the value of shirts in our daily wardrobes, and the lasting impression they can leave on colleagues, acquaintances and other members of society. But while shirts and ties used to be limited to a specific sphere of menswear, the unspoken rules and formalities of this strong combination are much more relaxed today, leaving you plenty of room to experiment with classic looks and your personal style.
Now, without further ado, follow these three rules to learn about pairing your shirts and ties.
Rule 1: Picking The Perfect Color
Matching a shirt and tie is not a complicated affair, but there are a few rules you should play by if you want to get the look right. The first rule relies on color theory; there are as many shirt and tie colors as there are colors of the rainbow. Choosing the right color may seem arbitrary, but you will want to pick the right hues for your complexion (warm or cool), and pair your choice of shirt and tie colors so they work in harmony.
Complementary Colors:
If you like to wear shirts and ties casually, complementary colors are a great place to start. These are best used in social settings, as their boldness may appear a bit out of place at the office. For example, a bright orange tie and light blue shirt are complementary, but create a much too playful look for most workplaces. But choose complementary colors on the weekend, and you won’t go wrong with this dynamic look.
Monochrome Color Scheme:
The easiest way to step up your game is to create a monochromatic look by layering different shades of one color, such as black, tan and gray. This is a conservative choice that can become playful if you choose to step outside the box and layer more vibrant shades, such as blue -- you can do this by pairing a light blue dress shirt and dark blue tie in a low key blue pattern. This option will add depth to your outfit and creates a relaxed, everyday look appropriate for work or play.
Adjacent Color Scheme:
The next rung on the ladder is an adjacent color scheme. This is often the option you end up with if you’ve ever bought a shirt and tie set. Rather than pairing the same colors on top of one another, this look takes color from opposite sides of the color wheel to create an interesting juxtaposition (for example, a blue shirt with a purple tie). Adjacent color schemes work because while the colors are different, the combo features both warm and cool notes.
Triadic Color Scheme:
Finally, we have the triadic color scheme, which follows an adjacent color scheme but adds a third color to the mix. This means that rather than picking two colors that oppose each other, you can have three colors to create a triangle shape within the color wheel. Triadic colors are more formal and tend to be reserved for weddings, business events, and formal social gatherings. For example, this look could be made up of a purple dress shirt, burgundy tie, and navy handkerchief.
Now that you have a color scheme in mind, it is time to learn how to match the colors and patterns with the appropriate shirt and tie.
Rule 2: Layering The Right Pattern
Choosing patterns are a fun way to build complexity within an outfit. The first option is a no-pattern look, which creates a bold statement. Times you want to wear a plain dress shirt and a plain tie include interviews, weddings, and funerals. In most cases, you will choose a monochromatic or complementary color scheme, effectively color blocking your tie and dress shirt (i.e. a black shirt with a black tie). Use this look sparingly, as it will get boring quickly. Instead, turn to a patterned tie to create a casual everyday look.
Adding a patterned tie or shirt (or a combination of both) to your outfit is straightforward and functional, but proceed carefully. Patterns can quickly overwhelm an outfit, so try to choose complementary patterns. Once you feel more confident in mixing your shirt and tie patterns, you can advance to the dapper level, which is where patterns are coordinated in very unexpected and aesthetically refreshing ways.
The most common look out there is the large-scale patterned shirt with a tie featuring a smaller pattern. There is nothing wrong with this classic approach to pairing, but it doesn’t display the most personality. This is a look most grad students lean on for work, interviews, and yes, even dates. As we get older, having the confidence to mix and match patterns is a great way to show off your maturity, which hopefully evolves with your style.
Below are three looks that I personally depend on:
Look 1: Proportions Of A Pattern
This first option is a great way to create a signature look without much effort. Using the same pattern in the tie and dress shirt adds layers of visual interest, and is not difficult to get right. Mixing a striped tie and striped shirt works, especially if you use the same colors. When mixing patterns this way, use a smaller stripe on the dress shirt and a larger stripe in your tie to add dimension. You don’t want to lose the tie on the shirt, so to speak.
Look 2: Contrasting Patterns
A contrasting combination takes a little more flair but it’s worth it. Wearing a striped shirt with a spotted tie, for example, enables both designs to stand out. The trick to making this combination work is to keep patterns small. A thin striped shirt with a discretely dotted tie will blend in together and keep the look crisp.
Look 3: Patterned Shirt With Plain Ties
This is perhaps my favorite look. Choosing a patterned shirt with a striking plain tie is surprisingly dapper, and creates a clean-cut look perfect for stylish gents. If you want to up this look, opt for a versatile solid silk tie. You can wear this combination in almost any setting and always feel confident you made the right choice.
Rule 3: Introducing Texture
So you have your dress shirt, tie, color scheme, and a pattern system that works for you. Next, you may be wondering, “What else could there be?” For those who like to stand out from the crowd, I have one more style hack that is always a hit. Adding texture to your shirt and tie combination is a fun way to go the extra mile, and always pays dividends. The texture could be in a chunky wool statement tie, in a high gloss dress shirt or in the addition of a handkerchief to your top right-hand pocket.
Either way, the purpose of texture is to compliment your outfit to add a stylish dimension to round off the overall look. Below are some variations you can incorporate into your look.
Silk Ties:
These are often colorful or highly patterned ties that are commonly found in higher-end department stores. They are best paired with understated, matte colors, like navy blue or charcoal.
Linen And Cotton Ties:
Linen and cotton are the ideal candidates for summer events, like beach weddings or VIP terrace hangs, since they are lightweight and more breathable than synthetic alternatives.
Wool Ties:
These interesting ties make for great winter accessories, and tend to come in wider shapes ideal for formal gatherings.
Knit Ties:
Less common, these ties can be worn year-round and add an exciting dimension to your tie (although this may not be a look for all men).
It’s easy to see why dress shirts and ties have remained in fashion for as long as they have; there are endless variations of colors, patterns, and textures to choose from, and you are only ever limited by your imagination. If you stick with my key rules, I’m confident you will always pick the right shirt and tie for any occasion. My only request is that you decide to try something new once in a while, to shake things up and see how you feel.
Related reading
- Color Coordination Formal Wear Shirts Ties