Burgers are served everywhere, even in some of the city's finest dining rooms. The latest entry in Houston's upscale burger wars is the Signature Steak Burger at La Casa del Caballo on lower Westheimer.
And let me tell you why it's one great dish:
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La Casa del Caballo
322 West-heimer 832-623-6467
1. Its size. It's a substantial burger. The patty is 10 ounces of prime sirloin that is deftly seasoned - just a bit of salt and pepper. La Casa del Caballo is a Mexican steakhouse, the cooks let the meat speak.
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"We cook it to medium," my server said. When I asked for the burger to be cooked to medium-rare, he was pleased.
The burger came to the table with a nice char (the smell - it's cooked on a wood-fired grill - was heavenly) and revealed its ample juices when cut in half. A big, juicy burger needs an equally ample bun. La Casa del Caballo serves its on a Stone Mill bun. It soaked up the juices yet never became soggy.
2. Its composition. There's nothing fancy about this burger's topping: a buttery blanket of Chihuahua cheese, freshly sliced avocado and a Piquin pepper mayonnaise. (The usual suspects - lettuce, tomato and onion - are available but aren't necessary.)
3. Its accoutrements. The burger is served with four small ramekins of salsa. They were delivered with flourish and a nice explanation. "I've lined them up. The mildest is here, the hottest is here," the server said, sweeping his hand across the table.
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The ramekins held a green tomatillo salsa (fragrant with cilantro); a savory red salsa made with tomatoes, Serrano peppers, red jalapeƱos and chicken stock; a citrusy red onion salsa; and the heat-bringer, a spicy habanero and green papaya salsa. The server suggested cutting the spiciest salsa with the savory salsa, but I found the red onion salsa the perfect foil for the burger. It had just the right amount of heat and the onion and tomato mimicked the makings of a traditional burger.
The Signature Steak Burger is available all day. Priced at $13, it includes crispy fried potatoes.
La Casa del Caballo: 322 Westheimer, 832-623-6467
