A working life: The fashion buyer

Stepping into Coes department store in Ipswich, the first impression painted by the seemingly endless rows of neatly hung jackets and trousers is of a traditional mens' outfitters not unlike Grace Brothers in the much-repeated TV sitcom Are You Being Served?

Keen young sales assistants, impeccably suited and booted, smile and wish me a good day over the displays of leather cufflink boxes. Heading past rows of colourful "Suffolk uniform" Hunter wellies, I make a beeline for the grand wooden staircase leading up to the light and bright womenswear section.

At the top, the distinctive Orla Kiely bags and mugs mark a noticeable change of style. Energetically working the floor in a stylish Ted Baker dress and vertiginous heels is Cheryl Rawlings, who in July 2002 – as a fashion graduate straight out of college – was recruited to help build the department from scratch. Joining as an assistant buyer, she has worked her way up through the business to head womenswear buying for this store and another in King's Lynn.

The fact that, historically, many of the store's most loyal customers have been female makes it all the more surprising that the womenswear department is such a recent development at Coes. "Women used to come here to help their husbands choose their clothes, and the management felt, rightly, that they should also be able to buy their clothes here," Rawlings says.

Coes is an independent, third-generation family firm which opened in 1928. Legendary in Suffolk not only for its hunting, shooting and fishing ranges, but also its formal and schoolwear, it is located on a road out of town, where customers can park right outside, and feels far from the hustle and bustle of the town centre. On a cold Thursday afternoon a steady stream of female customers trickles through the department, but Saturday tends to be the busiest day, when families visit together.

The first womenswear collection at Coes went on sale in the spring of 2003, and Rawlings admits that not everything made the tills ring: "We made a few mistakes and we quickly learned, for example, that women do not dress their age," she recalls. "They certainly don't want to wear what everybody else is wearing at the golf club."

But there is no such thing as an average customer. "We have a very diverse range of ladies who shop with us." At the younger end are the "school mums" – typically 35-plus – whose children may well be pupils at the nearby independent school just up the hill. And, not surprisingly, given the size of the retired population in Suffolk, there are many older customers, too.

The average outlay is between £400 and £500 on a complete outfit, Rawlings reveals, with some customers also buying gifts and costume jewellery as well as wardrobe staples. Very popular are signature pieces: a well-cut coat or jacket, something they can dress up or down with jeans and/or jewellery and other accessories, Rawlings explains. "They will invest in classic, key pieces and they will pay a lot of money for the right item of clothing."

The range of stock sizes are officially 8–20, although the key selling sizes are 12–16 and, like many women, customers are generally reluctant to purchase the next size up.

The local joke is that in fashion terms, Ipswich always tends to be a season behind the rest of the UK. A glance at the stock on Rawlings' shop floor reveals a mixture of smart and casual day and evening wear: jeans and polo shirts from Olsen and Ralph Lauren, and more contemporary brands such as Hobbs and French Connection. Popular German labels such as Gerry Weber, Basler and Hauber showcase a department that, if not at the cutting edge of high fashion, offers quality style to women who know their comfort zone. "We have a few 'hidden gems' such as the Olive and Orange brand for those that are more slightly trend-led," she adds.

Jeans are a staple item and the Not Your Daughter designs, which cleverly give "secret" support to the bottom and tummy, have been "a massive success" – even if they are hardly a snip at £159.95.

Rawlings is a self-confessed fan of Vivienne Westwood, but knows only too well she cannot stamp her own personal tastes on the department. With an eye on her fashion crystal ball, she has to make sure the clothes strike the right balance between current trends – such as maxi and tunic-style dresses – and classic traditional pieces which sell well.

She explains: "I love fashion and shopping, and a key part of my job is researching future trends. But it wouldn't be appropriate to try and sell really edgy designs here. That is not to say that we don't stock labels we know will appeal to younger shoppers."

Born and educated locally, Rawlings says she always had "a creative streak" and excelled at art and design. She decided at the eleventh hour not to do A-levels, instead opting for a Btec national diploma in costume, fashion and textiles as a more focused route to a career in fashion (in which she secured a distinction), before taking a degree in fashion design at the Kent Institute of Art and Design.

Then it was decision time. "I always thought fashion design as a career would be very competitive, and I was weighing up whether to pursue that or illustration. At the end of my course in 2002 I put together my final collection, which was very punk-orientated, having been greatly influenced by Westwood. When I had finished my dissertation I decided to come home to Suffolk to take stock and have a good think about what I wanted to do next. I was keen to get straight into the world of work and then I heard that Coes was looking for an assistant buyer."

She got the job and has since worked her way up, eventually taking charge of the department and – as well as supervising the buying – managing the staff (four sales assistants) with help from Fiona Coe, a member of the store's owning family.

In August 2004 she moved to King's Lynn to manage and buy for the company's new branch – Goddard's – as well as continuing to buy for the Ipswich store. By the following spring she had returned to Suffolk after being promoted to womenswear manager and buyer for both Ipswich and King's Lynn. Since giving birth to her son Ethan in January last year she has continued to manage and buy for Ipswich, also overseeing the buying for King's Lynn but taking a step back from day-to-day management.

Her work varies depending on the time of the year. When buying – typically at least six months in advance of the relevant season – she will be away in London and Europe, having made appointments to see representatives of manufacturers. Visiting trade shows is also part and parcel of the job, with Pure in London and Moda in Birmingham looming.

The buying days are "utterly exhausting but stimulating", Rawlings says. When she returns to Suffolk and has agreed what the store will stock in the next season she puts together a glossy "look book" for the staff, showing the selected outfits. She stresses that a fashion buyer needs to have not just visual and creative flair, but also an understanding of figures and accounts, and excellent organisational skills.

Asked about the impact of the recession, Rawlings is candid: "I can't pretend it didn't affect us. Sales were flat for a while, but we are lucky to have such a loyal customer base." And things are now on the up: "December [2010] was the best month ever since we opened. The snow did not adversely affect our sales. I want to build on this and make this department one of the most profitable in the whole store. The bottom line is our number one priority. We cannot afford to stock lines that are not going to sell."

Rawlings is clearly highly respected around the store and seems to relish the benefits of working for a family-run business rather than a high street multiple. "I get an amazing chance to put a real stamp on a department," she says. "I am lucky enough to have very few limitations and if I can justify my reasoning for an action it inevitably gets the green light." She also enjoys an excellent working relationship with the store's managing director.

"The strong family values here create a great working atmosphere and make you feel supported in having a positive home-work balance," she says.

There are some grand plans are on the horizon. One challenge is building up online shopping. At the same time she is angling for more space for her 3,500 sq ft shop floor, hopeful that she will be the beneficiary of Coes' ongoing expansion and refurbishment plans.

"Fingers crossed we can double the amount of space with another floor," she says. She could then fill the much-needed gap of footwear (the store only sells sports shoes and the ubiquitous Hunter wellies) and stock a wider selection of occasion and evening wear. For now, though, just keeping the tills ringing will do very nicely.

Curriculum vitae

Salary No formal pay structure, but a competitive package and a target-driven bonus scheme.

Hours A three-day week of 9.30am-4.30pm on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and 10am–4pm on Saturdays. But working days are much longer when on buying trips to London and in Europe.

Work-life balance "I am very fortunate to have a small and flexible employer who has allowed me to adjust my workload and work a three-day week in order to spend time with my 19-month-old son Ethan."

Highs "My department's turnover has increased year on year."

Lows "Introducing something into the shop that people just don't want to buy."

Overtime

Cheryl's own out-of-office look is 'jeans and a Barbour jacket'. Cheryl loves cars and formula one, and last year had a track day at the Rockingham circuit where she drove an Audi R8. 'I'd love a Bentley convertible. My favourite car I have owned is a Mini with a black and white checked roof, which was a birthday present from my husband.' Cheryl is looking forward to visiting New York to celebrate her 30th birthday in May, and is planning a trip to London to see Drawing Fashion, an exhibition of fashion illustration at the Design Museum.