The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery

Front Cover
University of Illinois Press, 2001 - Cooking - 224 pages
From the Americas to Australasia, from northern Europe to southern Africa, the tomato tickles the world's taste buds. Americans along devour more than twelve million tons annually of this peculiar fruit, variously considered poisonous, curative, and aphrodisiacal.

In this first concerted study of the tomato in America, Andrew F. Smith separates myth from historical fact, beginning with the Salem, New Jersey, man who, in 1820, allegedly attracted spectators from hundreds of miles to watch him eat a tomato on the courthouse steps (the legend says they expected to see him die a painful death). Later, hucksters such as Dr. John Cook Bennett and the Amazing Archibald Miles peddled the tomato's purported medicinal benefits. The competition was so fierce that the Tomato Pill War broke out in 1838.

The Tomato in America traces the early cultivation of the tomato, its infiltration of American cooking practices, the early manufacture of preserved tomatoes and ketchup (soon hailed as "the national condiment of the United States"), and the "great tomato mania" of the 1820s and 1830s. The book also includes tomato recipes from the pre-Civil War period, covering everything from sauces, soups, and main dishes to desserts and sweets.

Now available for the first time in paperback, The Tomato in America provides a piquant and entertaining look at a versatile and storied figure in culinary history.

 

Contents

Introducing the Introduction Story
xiv
The Roots of the American Tomato
3
The Arrival of the Tomato in America
15
Early Tomato Culture and Cultivation
42
Early American Tomato Cookery
62
Tomato Medicine
92
The Great Tomato Mania
122
From the Civil War to the Space Age
139
DESSERTS AND SWEETS
176
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES
179
BIBLIOGRAPHY AND OTHER SOURCES
185
GENERAL REFERENCE WORKS
187
CULINARY HISTORY
188
REPRINTED COOKERY BOOKS AND MANUSCRIPTS
189
WORKS ON TOMATO HISTORY
191
TOMATO COOKBOOKS AND PAMPHLETS
192

HISTORICAL RECIPES
149
SALAD SOUP GAZPACHO AND GUMBO
153
MAIN COURSES BAKED SCOLLOPED FRIED AND STEWED TOMATOES
157
SAUCES KETCHUPS AND OTHER CONDIMENTS
165
PRESERVING AND CANNING TOMATOES
171
TOMATO CULTURE
193
HEIRLOOM SEED SOURCES TOMATO ORGANIZATIONS AND OTHER RESOURCES
195
Index of Names
197
General Index
203
Copyright

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About the author (2001)

Andrew F. Smith is a freelance writer who teaches culinary history and professional food writing at the New School in Manhattan. He is the author of many books, including Pure Ketchup, Popped Culture, and The Saintly Scoundrel: The Life and Times of Dr. John Cook Bennett.

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