Hot stuffKeen as… sharp as… hot as… The imagery surrounding these little round seeds tells the story. Mustard may not be the essential desert island kitchen ingredient, but we would be the poorer without it: consider a dab of mustard to partner roast beef, a lively mustard vinaigrette, edgy sauce à la moutarde or vibrant Bangladeshi curry. It’s one of the world’s oldest condiments, yet one we often take for granted. Mustard seeds Prepared mustard is made from mustard seeds and other flavouring ingredients. There are three types of mustard seed: white (Sinapis albis, which are actually yellow), black (Brassica nigra, which, confusingly, are brown), and brown, sometimes called Indian (Brassica juncea), which are light brown and milder than the black seeds. The black seeds are exceedingly pungent; they’re also difficult to harvest, volatile and thus more expensive. White seeds tend to be much milder but can have the fieriness of the black, depending on how they’re prepared. At one time in Britain, whole swathes of Lincolnshire and Yorkshire were given over to growing black mustard seeds, and acres of Cambridge and Essex for white. White mustard seed also has preservative qualities, which is why they are often included in pickling spices. Mustard powderThe British mustard industry developed around Tewkesbury in the 16th century, but the introduction of characteristically biting-hot mustard powder was credited to a Mrs Clements in 1720. The potency only appears once water is added to the dried powder. It remains without peer for use in a range of old English recipes from devilled kidneys to cauliflower cheese and Welsh rarebit. Mix the diluted powder with cream or milk for a more mellow condiment. English mustard One of the best known 'made mustards' was from the firm of Keen and Sons of London, but by the 19th century, Colman’s of Norwich dominated the market. More recently, artisan British producers have introduced a wide range of mustard styles - although gimmicky mixes, such as whisky, beer or chilli, are sometimes simply unpleasant affectations. French mustardThe Romans introduced mustard into Europe, and medieval courts often employed a mustardarius, an official who supervised the growing and preparation of mustard. In the mid-14th century, the first sizeable commercial businesses grew up around Dijon, which now accounts for around half the world production. The best, such as Maille and Poupon, made with de-husked seeds, are pale, pungent and clean-tasting and are made with good-quality wine vinegar or verjuice. They convey both heat and flavour in the mouth: heat alone can make a mustard disappointingly one-dimensional. Dijon in particular brings out the flavour of a good steak.
 The best grain mustards should be sharp and give an immediate bite, sometimes like little jumping beans on the tongue. 
In Bordeaux, the tradition was to grind the whole seeds gently on stone mills, much like olives for oil. The result, commonly known as ‘French’ mustard, tends to have a dark-brown colour and a mild, slightly sweet and vinegary taste, and is often mixed with herbs; tarragon mustard goes well with chicken. It’s also good to use with dill for a Scandinavian gravadlax sauce. Moutarde violette is a rare French mustard that uses grape must to create a purple paste. The best grain mustards should be sharp and give an immediate bite, sometimes like little jumping beans on the tongue. Moutarde de Meaux Pommery, a grain mustard (made from whole crushed seeds), was said to have first been served to the King of France in 1632 and is sold in stone jars. Use swiftly after opening the seal or the heat disappears. Use with pork, bacon and ham and in creamy sauces. A global ingredientGerman and American versions of prepared mustards are mostly diluted versions of Dijon with different seasonings; German is typically dark and sweet-sour, American is luminous, creamy, mild and sweet. Respectively perfect with bratwurst and hot dogs
Black or brown mustard seeds are widely used in Indian, especially Bengali and Southern Asian, cooking. When fried, the taste is nutty rather than fiery.
 The seeds can also be used as a source for mustard oil, which is much-used in Bengali cooking, giving a characteristic yellow tinge to dishes. The aromas that arise from cooking with mustard oil are very pungent, but the hotness of the oil sweetens during the cooking process, and it gives an interesting base flavour to curries. The leaves of many types of mustard plant are edible. Salad leaves such as mizuna and tatsoi are actually types of mustard. The green leaves of Brassica rapa chinensis, sometimes called pak choi, have a mild, mustardy taste. Mustard greens are more commonly used in Asian cooking (particularly in China) than in European cooking, although edible mustard grows wild in Sweden, Ireland and the Hebrides. In Italy sweet mustard syrup, called mostarda, is used to preserve large pieces of crystallised fruit, traditionally served with boiled meats. The word mostarda, however, refers to the quinces used in the relish rather than the mustard (called senape in Italian). RecipesYou can use prepared mustard, mustard powder or mustard seeds to liven up a huge range of dishes, starting with these:
Or try one of these basic recipes for sauces and marinades:
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