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BRAZILIAN FEIJOADA

(Trimmed-down version, for the cholesterol-conscious)


Reputedly introduced in Brazil by black slaves as early as the sixteenth century, "feijoada" -- a bean potpourri type dish -- is roughly the Brazilian equivalent of our American "soul food". It is without a doubt the country's national dish. It is in fact so popular throughout Brazil that most restaurants, from the humblest inner-city " lanchonete" to the sophisticated hotels lining the Bahia and Rio shores, designate specific days in which "feijoada" is served at lunch time as "o prato do dia" -- the day's special. Other eateries pride themselves in the fact that they serve it every day and advertise it in the yellow pages and/or in conspicuous blackboards outside their premises.

Cachaca, Pinga, Capirinha

Since "feijoada" is in general a particularly "heavy" dish, it is only served at noon. The recommended post-feijoada activity is a nap. Because of the high fat content in the true feijoada, Brazilians believe that it must be watered-down with a "caipirinha"," a mixture of lime juice, sugar and "cacha�a" or "pinga," a strong liquor derived from sugar cane (often better than 100% proof!!!). Like its Mexican counterpart, the "margarita," the "caipirinha" -- also known as "batida" and "caipir�ssima" -- is made with lots of crushed ice, in a cocktail shaker. Hence the name "batida" or shake. As of the last few years, middle and upper-class Brazilians, particularly of the female gender, have been turning to the "capivodka," which utilizes a far less detectable base...

In a real feijoada, or as the Brazilians say, "uma feijoada leg�tima," every part of the pig is thrown into the pan. It is also a known fact that the sight of the pig's ear, tail or snout floating in the feijoada will upset the gringos. So feijoada is often made -- to the dismay of the traditionalists -- with only the noble parts of the pig. This reduces the fat content and makes it visually less offensive to gringos.

Rice is the main staple of Brazilian cuisine. As such, it is only too logical that it be the ideal companion for the "feijoada." This main dish is customarily presented with "farofa" (mandioca meal fried with a variety of ingredients that include bacon, garlic, onion and boiled eggs). Another side dish is "couve mineira" (collard or mustard greens cut in very thin strips and fried at the last minute in oil, garlic, and bacon). In addition, the presentation features "fatias de laranja" or orange slices. The citric acid in the oranges is also supposed to counteract the fat in the pork. The meal is then topped off with what is lovingly referred to as "Romeu e Julieta," a side dish made up of "queijo mineiro" (a special soft cheese from the state of Minas Gerais, vaguely resembling our Monterey jack) and a slice of "goiabada" a dark sweet paste made with the guava fruit.

What follows is one of many recipes intended to introduce the uninitiated to the art of making Brazil's culinary claim-to-fame. Try your hand at it soon and GOOD LUCK!

Sample picture, click for image Sample picture, click for image

RECIPE INGREDIENTS (serves ten-fifteen)

1 lb. black beans
1 lb. smoked ham hocks
1 of each: pork foot, ear, tail, tongue (optional)
1 lb. Mexican "chorizo," "pepperoni" or Brazilian "ling�i�a"
1/2 lb. Chunk of lean Canadian bacon or Brazilian "carne seca"
1/2 lb. Smoked pork or beef ribs
3-4 strips of smoked bacon
1/2 lb. lean pork
1/2 lb. lean beef
1 large onion
4 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons of olive or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
salt to taste
black pepper
hot sauce (optional)
short prayer (in Portuguese or English) that your "feijoada" will be edible.


The traditional "caipirinha" that goes with the feijoada.


PREPARATION

Soak beans overnight in large container. Next morning, cook beans for 4-5 hours at low heat. Place ham hocks, chorizo, ribs and Canadian bacon in deep pan with plenty of water and bring to a boil. Change water and bring to a new boil, repeating the procedure at least three times to tenderize cured meats and remove excess fat. In a large frying pan saut� onion and garlic using either vegetable or olive oil (smoked bacon strips optional) for two or three minutes. Toss in cubed pork and beef. Saut� an additional two-three minutes.

Mash 5-l0 tablespoons of beans and add to large pot. The resulting paste will thicken sauce. Add two tablespoons of olive oil, three garlic cloves all chopped-up or mashed, along with a tablespoon of white vinegar and a teaspoon of red-hot pepper. Stir, heat over medium fire for two-three minutes, then transfer to contents of frying pan. (You may use two frying pans, if necessary) Let simmer for l0-l5 minutes. Add contents of frying pan(s) to the beans and let boil at medium heat for 1-2 hours.

Serve over rice, with additional red-hot sauce, if desired.

APROVEITEM A FEIJOADA! ENJOY!