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The Legend behind Anadama Bread

by Aimee Seavey

New England has bragging rights to a whole dinner party's worth of dishes. Some, like New England Clam Chowder, Boston Baked Beans, and Boston Cream Pie need no explanation. Others, like Indian Pudding, Parker House Rolls, and Johnnycakes may not be immediately familiar, but are no less deserving of their place at the table.

In my effort to fully appreciate (and by appreciate, I mean taste) all that the traditional New England kitchen has to offer, I've been tackling a few of these dishes with the help of my trusty collection of Yankee cookbooks. My most recent adventure was with the most classic of New England loaves — Anadama Bread.

Anadama Bread has it all — regional origins, amazing taste, and an interesting back story. The name "Anadama Bread" first appeared in print in 1915, but it was undoubtedly baked in many New England hearths before then. What distinguishes Anadama from other breads is the inclusion of cornmeal and molasses. Both were both common ingredients in Northeast cooking, but they truly shine in this bread.

So what does "Anadama" mean? Local legend overwhelmingly credits a Gloucester fisherman with coining the term as a not-so-loving tribute to his wife, Anna. It seems Anna wasn't blessed with talent in the kitchen, and after numerous bowls of molasses and cornmeal porridge for supper, the fisherman angrily tossed in some flour and yeast one evening and threw the mixture into the oven. While it baked he sat muttering, "Anna, Damn her!", and the name was born.

Fortunately, so was this delicious bread. The molasses and cornmeal make for a sweet and nutty aroma while it bakes, which carries over into the flavor.

Whether you enjoy Anadama bread warm from oven, toasted with butter with your morning tea, or as a sweet alternative to your everyday sandwich bread, you can be sure that with every bite you are eating like a true New Englander.

Anadama Bread Recipe

The Yankee Magazine Cookbook, 1981.

• 2 packages dry yeast
• 1/2 cup lukewarm water
• 2/3 cup molasses
• 2 cups water or milk, or 1 cup of each (I used milk)
• 1 1/2 tsp. salt
• 3 Tbsp. shortening
• 1 cup cornmeal
• 7 – 8 cups flour

Dissolve yeast in lukewarm water and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine molasses, water or milk, shortening, cornmeal, and 3 cups of flour.
Add the yeast and mix until you have a smooth dough.
Continue to add remaining flour until the dough becomes stiff is and no longer sticky.
Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, around 10 minutes.
Place the dough into a greased bowl, turning it once to grease the top, then cover it and allow it to rise until doubled in bulk — around 1 1/2 hours.
Gently punch the dough down then let it rest for 10 minutes.
Shape the dough into 3 loaves, then place them into 3 greased 9x5 in loaf pans.
Let them rise until just about doubled, then bake at 350 degrees for 35 - 45 minutes.
Invert loaves to cool onto a wire rack, then enjoy a slice warm!

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Aimee Seavey is a proud lifelong New Englander with a passion for history, food, and the way the two are connected through regional and family traditions. She lives in Boston and spends most of her free time exploring the city's many cultural, historical, and culinary offerings. She cannot resist vintage cookbooks, kitchen tools, or a good story about a New England dish or a family recipe. To make a suggestion or read more visit her blog, The Apron Archives at www.theapronarchives.com..