I grew up Catholic, back in the days when that meant that every Friday was a meatless Friday (Catholic kids have it so easy these days). And my mom was an old-school Irish cook (killing germs was Job One) who did unspeakable things to fresh fish. And so I learned the joys of canned tuna, grilled cheese, tomato soup, meatless pizza — anything that would keep me from theological and culinary hell.
But because I didn’t grow up in Chicago, I was ignorant of one of the greatest Lenten creations of all time: The pepper and egg sandwich.
Like many great dishes, this sandwich is simple and true — scrambled eggs and griddled bell peppers on a bun. Its brilliance comes from execution; when the eggs are soft and creamy, the peppers sweet from caramelization, the bun sturdy but yielding (or satisfyingly crusty), the pepper and egg sandwich is a thing of beauty, nourishing the body and even the soul, to the extent that it’s helping to keep you out of trouble with the Man Upstairs.
Here some good pepper and egg options.
Bacchanalia. Owned by the Pieri family since 1979, this Heart of Italy mainstay takes its name from Bacchus, the Roman god of wine and excess (there’s a mural of the old boy in the front rooming room), which helps explain the size of the lunch menu’s pepper and egg sandwich ($7.95). The sandwich here , which is like a very large omelet between crusty pieces of Italian bread. Add fries (also supplied in abundance) for $1.25. Note bene: Cash only. 2413 S. Oakley Ave., 773-254-6555
Birchwood Kitchen. Available Fridays during Lent, the pepper-and-egg sandwich ($7.50) eggs and marinated red peppers on a baguette, along with a side salad. 2211 W. North Ave., 773-276-2100
Buona Beef. A solid source for pepper and egg sandwiches, provided it’s a Friday; that’s the only day the sandwich ($5.25, $8.25 with side and drink) is served. Various locations; buona.com
Burger Boss. This burger specialist in Elmwood Park will offer its Pepper & Egg Boss, served on a brioche bun, through Easter (April 5) this year. 7512 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park, 708-452-7288
Ferro’s. This Bridgeport spot, at 31st Street and Wentworth Avenue, is better known for its Italian beef sandwiches and hot dogs, but its potato, pepper and egg sandwich ($5.99; add cheese, 50 cents) is a beauty, an oversized omelet-on-a-bun with chunks of home-fry potatoes for good measure. The French roll, though substantial, still isn’t big enough to hold all the egg and extras, which is why I recommend finding a table before taking this on. There’s also a regular pepper and egg sandwich ($5.49), and, for the nondevout, a sausage, pepper and egg combo ($6.49). Cash only. 200 W. 31st St., 312-842-0702
Fiore’s Delicatessen.This corner grocery is a great place for carry-out sandwiches, all made to order (and you can call in orders too). The pepper and egg sandwiches come in three lengths: 5 ($4.50), 7 ($5.25) and 9 inches ($5.75), all featuring green and orange bell peppers and scrambled eggs on a soft yet chewy Italian roll. For a bit more, you can add cheese (50 cents) and mild or spicy giardiniera (25 cents); you really want that giardiniera; the crunch, acidity and added spice really make the sandwich. 2258 W. Erie St., 312-942-9419
Gio’s Cafe and Deli. This Bridgeport corner spot has shelves lined with Italian specialties and a carryout counter, but also a dozen or so full-service tables (red-check tablecloths topped with white butcher paper) and a whiteboard listing a half-dozen entree specials (come here for dinner; it’s BYOB). The pepper and egg sandwich, available all day, every day (closed Sunday) has a base price of $6.50, but you can add potatoes or sausage (for the irreverent) for a buck or two. The peppers are already folded into the scrambled eggs, tucked into about nine inches or so of soft Italian bun. 2724 S. Lowe Ave., 312-225-6368
Hound Dogs Burgers and Teriyak. I’m confident that this is the only place in town where you can order burgers, teriyaki chicken and bi bim bap, in addition to the pepperand egg sandwich ($3.75 with tax) served on a crunchy French roll. A healthy dash of salt distinguishes this sandwich, served hot off the griddle. 2257 W. Grand Ave., 312-666-5797
Jim & Pete’s. This is a full-service restaurant with an upscale-tavern look. The lunch menu’s pepper and egg sandwich has a base price of $5.50, and you can add cooked spinach and/or good, hot fries for a bit more. The eggs have a nice dash of black pepper. There are parking lots east and west of the restaurant, but you’re not allowed to use either one; park on the street if you don’t want to cab it to the auto pound. 7806 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park, 708-453-5204
Johnnie’s Beef. Some aficionados believe this to be the home of Chicago’s finest Italian beef sandwich. It’s also home to a superior pepper and egg sandwich ($3.45), available Fridays only, made with the restaurant’s own sweet peppers on a French roll. Add giardiniera for 32 cents; ask for cheese, and they’ll look at you funny. Nonobservant? The Pepper and Egg Combo ($3.85) contains sausage. 7500 W. North Ave., Elmwood Park, 708-452-6000
Labriola Bakery Cafe. There are two Labriola Bakery Cafe locations — a Michigan Avenue location debuted recently, but only the Oak Brook location is open for breakfast, and thus represents your only opportunity to try Labriola’s pepper and egg sandwich. Scrambled organic eggs and sauteed green and red-bell peppers are packed into a crusty French baguette, served with fruit or rosemary-flecked roasted potatoes (get the potatoes). This is one filling, $7.99 breakfast. Oak Brook Promenade, 3021 Butterfield Rd., Oak Brook, 630-574-2008
Micelli’s Deli. Getting a pepper and egg sandwich on a French roll ($4.25) at this Heart of Chicago delicatessen just feels right. 2448 S. Oakley St., 773-847-6873
Osteria Ottimo. Ottimo’s knife-and-fork creation, available throughout Lent, is a sandwich in name only. The open-faced sandwich tops a ciabatta base with a poached egg, roasted red peppers, onion and taleggio cheese ($8.99) and is served with a small salad or Parmesan fries. 16111 S. La Grange Road, Orland Park, 708-403-3366
Pompei. The pepper and egg sandwich here ($4.50), served on a soft French roll, is a monster, a day’s worth of scrambled eggs mixed with roasted green peppers. The sandwich is a little bland, but if you eat in the dining room, you’ll find salt, pepper, grated Parmesan and chile flakes at the table (this is, after all, more pizzeria than not) and hot sauce nearby. 1531 W. Taylor St., 312-421-5179
Taco Joint. Fridays in during Lent, the River North and Lincoln Park locations are offering a poblano pepper and egg torta ($7) with vegetable escabeche and black-bean salsa. 158 W. Ontario St., 312-337-8226; 1969 N. Halsted St., 312-951-2457
Xoco. There’s no rule that pepper and egg sandwiches have to be boring, and Xoco’s version is anything but. It’s a torta of scrambled eggs, poblano peppers and zucchini ($7.50), served with a side cup of perky tomatillo salsa. It’s delicious, but it’s only on the breakfast menu, so arrive no later than 10:30 a.m. or you’ll miss out. Don’t forget to order one of the epic hot chocolate concoctions; I’m partial to the chile-enhanced Aztec version. 449 N. Clark St., 312-661-1434
Twitter @philvettel
