The Wayback Machine - https://web.archive.org/web/20140925095222/http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2006/aug/13/surfing.watersports.unitedkingdom

Learning to surf

The sea is at its warmest as summer merges into autumn, so now is the time to plan the perfect wave-riding getaway. Here, surf experts Demi Taylor and Chris Nelson explain where to learn, improve and then really show off
  • The Observer,
Surfer at Newquay
Wax on wax off ... pro surfing at Newquay. Photograph: Alamy

THE BEST PLACES TO LEARN

Britain is a great place to be a surfer - no city is more than a couple of hours from the nearest stretch of an 11,075-mile coastline, and with waves breaking on all four coasts this is one of the most flexible surf destinations in Europe. Learning to surf here can be as difficult or as easy as you want. While some choose to battle the white water alone, hooking up with a good British Surfing Association (BSA)-approved surf school (www.britsurf.co.uk) will help make the transition to up-and-riding a whole lot easier.

1 Llangennith, Gower, Wales

Three-mile-long Llangennith beach lies on the western fringe of the Gower peninsular, Britain's first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. This consistent 'beach break' (where waves form above a sandy sea bed) has acted as a nursery for generations of rising stars, and now boasts the Welsh Surfing Federation surf school (www.wsfsurfschool.co.uk). Hillend Campsite (01792 386204) overlooks the beach, while Western House B&B (01792 386620) is run by a surfing family and lies just down the road from the surf-legend King's Head pub.
Best months: April-November

2 Porthtowan, Cornwall

In the heart of the 'Badlands' (surfer-speak for the coast around St Agnes), Porthtowan is home to a picturesque sandy bay and some of the UK's best surfers. British longboard champion Dominique Kent runs courses for beginners to advanced, with an emphasis on the growing number of female surfers (07816 752371; www.purebluewater.com). The beachfront Blue bar is an awesome spot for a beer and bite to eat, while The Malthouse (01872 553318; www.themalthousestagnes.co.uk) in nearby St Agnes offers a surfer-friendly, eclectic B&B experience.
Best months: April-November

3 Saltburn Beach, Cleveland

The North Sea may not seem like an obvious place to take your first surf lesson, but the Victorian resort of Saltburn has been the hub of north east surfing for over four decades. During the warm autumn season, the gently sloping beach forms mellow 'peelers' ideal for beginners and those wanting to refine their skills. The beachfront Saltburn Surf Shop (www.saltburnsurf.co.uk) is a fixture, and offers board hire and tuition.
Best months: April-November

4 Watergate Bay, Newquay, Cornwall

Close to the frenetic UK surf capital Newquay, this huge stretch of sandy beach offers enough space to avoid the crowds and is supervised by RNLI lifeguards throughout the summer. It is home to many surf schools, including the Extreme Academy (www.extremeacademy.co.uk), and Europe's first O'Neill Surf Academy (www.oneillsurfacademy.co.uk). Completing the package, Watergate is overlooked by Jamie Oliver's new restaurant Fifteen, an ideal spot for a heavenly pre-surf breakfast with views to match.
Best months: April-November

5 Dunbar, East Lothian, Scotland

The east coast of Scotland possesses more than 300 miles of surfable shoreline - that's a huge amount of wave-riding potential. The open sandy beaches at Dunbar and Belhaven catch any swell that rolls out of the Arctic and produce fun waves perfect for beginners. With wetsuit technology making light work of the sometimes chilly waters, this region is now a big draw for the surfers of Edinburgh. Try Coast 2 Coast (www.c2cadventure.com) for rooms and lessons.
Best months: April-November

6 Woolacombe, Devon

To the south of Morte Point stretches two miles of rolling beach break, ideally suited to beginners and those put off by the crowds and powerful peaks of nearby Croyde. Surfersworld (01271 890037; www.surfersworld.co.uk) caters to all your surfing needs with chic, boutique apartments, a wet room and a secure board storage area. Based at the cool Westbeach bar, they are open year round and also run a BSA surf school.
Best months: April-November

BRITAIN'S BEST SURF SCENES

Even those who - whisper it - don't actually surf are gravitating to the spots where surfers have brought a cool, youthful edge to the British seaside. These are some of the favourites.

7 Croyde, Devon

Croyde is Devon's undisputed surf town, and every summer this quaint, thatched, chocolate-box village swells under the influx of waveriders of all standards. Out of the water, the many pubs and bars are a great place to drink in the salt-soaked atmosphere. The Thatch (01271 890349) on Hobbs Hill is the focus for visiting and local surfers alike, and does get busy, while Blue Groove (01271 890111) serves up great, well-priced, post-surf food. The village hall often hosts friendly gigs at the weekends, including ever-popular reggae band the Universe Inspectors.
Best months: April-November

8 Godrevy Beach, Cornwall

While nearby Newquay is a mass of bustling pubs and clubs, Godrevy - to the south west - is the perfect antidote. The huge bay arcs south for over three miles, providing ample room to stretch your legs. The car park is a mellow melting pot of all surfing tribes, while the excellent Godrevy Cafe (01736 757999), with its raised decking and killer sea views, serves up a selection of fresh, locally sourced dishes and beers to see the sun down with. Perfect for a warm summer evening.
Best months: April-November

9 Isle of Wight

The Isle of Wight Surf Club was formed in 1967, and each year the surf community on the island gets larger and keener than ever. With 60 miles of coastline and a number of excellent breaks including Freshwater and Compton Bay, any swell pushing up the Channel is soon pounced upon by the locals. The annual White Air Festival in October (www.whiteair.co.uk) offers the island a chance to host the country's top surfers, wakeboarders, skateboarders and windsurfers, and you can soak it all up without even getting wet. Unless it rains, of course...
Best months: September-December

10 Scarborough, Yorkshire

Scarborough is a real Jekyll and Hyde resort, with the garish amusements lining the South Bay a contrast to the surfing beaches of the prettier North Bay. The surf scene here revolves around the Secret Spot Surf Shop (www.secretspot.co.uk), and owners Roger and Tommo hold regular surf nights at Murray's Bar, with films and live bands. The yearly influx from the expanded local university means Scarborough boasts one of the most vibrant surf scenes in the UK.
Best months: April-November

LONG WEEKENDS FOR IMPROVERS

An intensive dose of surf is a great way to really hone your skills. Here's a selection of some of the best weekenders:

11 Lagos, Portugal

Great surf, weather and nightlife: Lagos delivers it all. The cobbled old town enjoys a vibrant array of bars and restaurants, while the still relatively undiscovered, jagged coastline of the western Algarve is a maze of golden beaches and sandy coves. The Surf Experience (www.surf-experience.com) will meet you at the airport and guide you through Europe's most consistent surf region.
Best months: All year

12 Hossegor, France

The beach breaks of France have been a rites-of-passage trip for British surfers since the Sixties because, as an all-round destination, Hossegor delivers. Through the summer and early autumn, the bars and beaches are packed with the bronzed and the beautiful. The climate is hot, but not stifling, and life rightly revolves around the seemingly endless beach. Then there's the surf: it has something for everyone from the sickest stand-up tube rides to beginner's waves. Check out www.surfsolutions.info, run by British champion surfer Gabe Davies and Joel Grey.
Best months: April-November

13 Lahinch, County Clare, Ireland

The rolling countryside and limestone pavement of western Ireland plunge into the Atlantic at the breathtaking 300ft-high Cliffs of Moher, just to the north of the coastal town of Lahinch. The wide-open sandy beach offers room to spread out and ride a peak of your own, while to the south there waits a series of more challenging left-hand point breaks. Big-wave charger and local surf school owner John McCarthy offer lessons, tips and advice (www.lahinchsurfschool.com). The bars are pretty legendary too.
Best months: May-October

14 Thurso, Caithness, Scotland

At the mouth of 'Thor's River' lies one of Europe's premier waves: the mighty Thurso East. The frigid, brown, peaty water breaks over a flat, stone reef, producing huge, hollow waves that wouldn't look out of place in Hawaii. If you're not quite up to the grinding reefs just yet, there are an abundance of quiet, dune-backed beaches nearby. Sandra's Backpackers (01847 894575) has become an institution for visiting surfers.
Best months: April-October

THE BIG TRIP

When you decide to pick up the atlas and take the plunge, the following offerings should provide just the right amount of surf, culture and adventure.

15 Taghazoute, Morocco

This small village just a short drive north of Agadir has become a Mecca for waveriders across the globe. It is a heady blend of Arab and Berber culture, and home to an array of high-quality point breaks varying from the fun to the seriously challenging. British-run Moroccan Surf Adventures (www.morocsurf.com) has played host to some of the world's top professionals, and provides accommodation, advice and guided trips.
Best months: October-March

16 Santa Teresa, Costa Rica

With warm winter waves, a rich jungle setting and a true feeling of adventure, it is hardly surprising that Central America is the current destination of choice. The relaxed atmosphere, political stability and consistent surf of Costa Rica makes it number one for US surfers, and Europeans are quickly catching on. The beaches around the Nicoya Peninsula are a dream, and can still offer a sense of getting away from it all. UK-based Errant (www.errantsurf.com) offers breaks to Santa Teresa with a BSA-trained coach.
Best months: November-April

17 Tofino, Vancouver Island, Canada

Tofino is Canada's very own buzzing surf capital - an unexpected and awe-inspiring surf destination. Glassy, opal Pacific breakers peel along Long Beach and Chesterman Bay, the dark sandy shore dominated by an intense, green, temperate rainforest. A year-round destination for the hardcore surfer, summer and autumn offer comfortable water temperatures, classic surf and a buzzing scene. Current hotspot with Hollywood A-listers keen to catch a few waves away from the crowds. For tuition, try www.pacificsurfschool.com.
Best months: April-November

18 Bali, Indonesia

The original surfers' migration of the early Seventies saw an invasion of the pristine waves of Bali. These classic warm-water waves still draw a dedicated following, and are a great springboard for more challenging and dangerous breaks across the archipelago. Kuta Beach is a fun warm-up, and the classic left-hand point break at Uluwatu is part of surfing folklore. To stay in style, check out www.theelysian.com.
Best months: April-October

THE BEST - FOR EXPERTS ONLY

19 Pipeline, North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii

Unlike shifting beach breaks, reef breaks, by the very nature of their foundations, are more permanent. Fringed by the ubiquitous palm trees and golden sands of the Pacific, the lava reef of Pipeline points to the very heart of Oahu's North Shore, the centre of the surfing universe. This is the complete wave, with history, location and pedigree - the hollow, thumping lefts and rights, breaking in a few feet of crystalline water, are true tests for the elite. The surfers at Pipe are fiercely competitive, and hierarchy is strictly enforced. Although countless waves have been discovered since it was first hesitantly ridden in 1961, nothing has managed to surpass this giant as the ultimate reference point for surfers. It's no coincidence that this is where the world champion is crowned every year.
Best months: October-March

20 Mavericks, California, US

When Jeff Clark tried to tell people about this wave he'd discovered at Half Moon Bay, no one believed him - so he surfed these monstrous waves alone for nearly 15 years. Today, Mavericks- with a hardcore crew of dedicated surfers - is universally accepted as a premier big-wave spot. But big waves equal bigger wipe-outs. Here that means freefalling over 30 feet before slamming into the surface and being driven another 20 ear-popping feet down into the cold, dark Pacific by a mountain of water. A lucky break is being released from the depths in time to surface before it happens all over again.
Best months: September-April

GIVE THAT KOOK THE STINK-EYE, DUDE

Surfers in the Fifties were famed for having a language all of their own, making it hard for outsiders to penetrate the in-crowd. Although surfers in the 21st century don't exactly speak like Bill and Ted, here are the key phrases, picked by Demi and Chris, below, that identify fellow waveriders as either a 'bro' or a 'kook'.

Going off = classic surf or surfing, as in: 'Did you see Slater at J-Bay? He was going off!'

Grommet or grom = young, keen surfer, as in: 'There was a whole pack of groms out owning the peak at first light.'

Kook = clueless or useless surfer, as in: 'Go back to the valley, kook!'

The valley = inland.

Sick or filthy = heavy wave or stylish manoeuvre, as in: 'There were some sick pits at the reef yesterday.'

Goofy = surfer who rides with the right foot forward.

Regular = surfer who rides with the left foot forward.

Stink-eye = glare at someone in an intimidating way, as in: 'I gave that kook the stink-eye.'

Dude = so far out of style, it's almost in again. Can only be used with close friends (unless you're a kook), as in: 'Dude, that was a awesome left!'

Remember: waves are never referred to as 'rollers' or 'breakers', a barrel is never the 'green room', and only Bart Simpson can say 'Cowabunga!'

COMPETITION

Demi Taylor and Chris Nelson are the authors of the surfing trilogy 'Surfing Britain', 'Surfing Europe' and the latest, 'Surfing the World' (all published by Footprint; (www.footprintbooks.com). Escape has a copy of 'Surfing the World' for the first 20 people to email Escape.competition@observer.co.uk, enclosing their name, address and phone number.

To order a copy of 'Surfing the World' for £22.99 with free UK p&p, go to observer.co.uk/bookshop or call 0870 836 0885.

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