New Zealand is known for its edgy fashion exports such as Kate Sylvester and Zambesi, but a retrospective exhibition reveals a lesser known secret: the land of the long white cloud once had its own Vogue.
Sharing Sheila Scotter as its editor with Vogue Australia, the magazine was one of the first international editions outside of the United States and Europe and was in print from 1957 to 1968.
Originally published as an offshoot of British Vogue, the quarterly publication connected the northern and southern hemispheres and gave Kiwi designers a spotlight on the international fashion scene. “The editors not only saw their role as providing an engaging magazine for readers, but also to foster and support the local industry,” says Claire Regnault, curator at New Zealand’s national museum Te Papa in Wellington.
“[The editors] were provided with up-to-the-minute information on fashion trends that they could supply to local manufacturers – this was a service that they had never had before... It imbued the local industry, which was burgeoning at the time, with confidence and pride.”
The magazine was “gorgeous” and “aspirational”, she says, and clearly reflected the attitudes of the times. “There was an emphasis on etiquette.” Models were “well heeled, well groomed, well mannered. They were most definitely 'ladies',” she says.
There was also a British accent, seen mostly in the publication’s early years as it tried to find its feet. “What I love about the early issues is that New Zealand garments were flown to London to be photographed in quintessential English settings,” she says. “England was still the mother country.” At least the editors had not forgotten which side of the world their readers were on. “The editorial commentary provided helpful suggestions to the New Zealand reader as to where they could wear the garments at home.”
The 20 designer garments and accessories on display were featured in either editorial or advertising in Vogue New Zealand. Drawn from the museum’s own fashion collection, Regnault says, “The selection process was very much guided by the pages of Vogue New Zealand and the series of stories I wanted to tell about Vogue and the industry at the time, such as the importance of the Wool Board and the business of manufacturing under-licence, as well as emerging local designer names.”
Regnault says she was also inspired by the magazine’s text. “We included a key piece of text in each [display] as a magazine style teaser, as I love the language of Vogue. It has the most beautiful rhythms, it’s often musical, sets a tone, and is so evocative.”
New Zealand in Vogue on until September 2012, at the Eyelights Gallery, Te Papa museum, Wellington, New Zealand.
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