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Eating Well

Eating Well
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June 10, 1992, Section C, Page 3Buy Reprints
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WOULD Elizabeth David have been horrified to see recipes she inspired in a health and nutrition column called Eating Well?

Probably.

It's unlikely that Mrs. David, who died last month at the age of 78, ever counted a calorie or a gram of fat in her life. She would have found the whole idea distasteful. It's unlikely that this Englishwoman, who is credited with changing the way the English thought about food after World War II, ever had to count calories.

"Elizabeth David never thought about food in relationship to health in the same dotty way Americans do," said Gerald Asher, wine editor of Gourmet magazine and a longtime friend of Mrs. David. But he said her food was mostly healthful "because it is very honest food, very straightforward." She was not interested in haute cuisine, a point she made often in her books. In "A Book of Mediterranean Food" (Penguin, 1965) she wrote, "It is honest cooking, too, none of the sham Grande Cuisine flashes of the International Palace Hotel."

But she knew all about balance and moderation. In "French Country Cooking" (Penquin, 1966) she wrote: "A sole cooked in a rich sauce of cream and mushrooms must be followed by a dry dish of entirely different aspect such as a roast partridge or a grilled tournedos, cold ham, jellied beef or a terrine of duck," adding, "Have some regard for the digestions of others even if your own resembles that of the ostrich."

The sensibility that informed her cooking crossed the Atlantic, too. Dozens of the young chefs who have brought glory to American cooking over the last two decades are indebted to Mrs. David. Alice Waters, often described as the mother of contemporary American cooking, considers Mrs. David her greatest inspiration. "I so much absorbed what she had to say," Ms. Waters said. "It's really an esthetic that formed my decisions in the restaurant," her Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif.

Most of those who were influenced by Mrs. David never met her. But like Michela Larson, owner of Michela's in Cambridge, Mass., they thought of her as their mentor. One day in 1978 on a trip to London, Mrs. Larson said: "I wandered into Elizabeth David's store in Chelsea. It was jammed from floor to ceiling with things I had never seen in my life, everything I was beginning to learn about, and her cookbooks. I bought her Mediterranean cookbook and was completely overwhelmed. I used her books to free myself so that I do things more than one way. Julia Child brought France here, but she brought you everywhere."

Inspiration is the word most often used when chefs speak of Mrs. David. "Even before I was in this business, I loved to read her," said Anne Rosenzweig, chef and owner of Arcadia in New York. "She created a feelng about food that was so earthy and not complicated. I'd never really seen it before. Recipes were not recipes; they were ideas."

It was the lack of formulaic recipe writing that appealed to Joyce Goldstein, owner of Square One in San Francisco. "Her recipes are inspirational, not anal," Ms. Goldstein said.

Even after years as a professional chef, Ms. Goldstein says she still refers to Elizabeth David's books. So does Nora Pouillon, chef and co-owner of Nora in Washington, who credits Mrs. David with her decision to become a chef. "After I read 'French Provincial Cooking,' I wanted to get up and cook," Ms. Pouillon said. "I could taste the food."

Mrs. David's emphasis was always on food as a communion, a time to gather at the table, savor the food and talk. Margaret Fox, owner of Cafe Beaujolais in Mendocino, Calif., said: "Her writings speak to me because I'm a great believer in food not being a special event and restaurants not being shrines. To Elizabeth David special events can happen every day.

"She made you think. She made you be there and understand organically. She spoke more to the intuitive."

Mrs. David's books are bedtime reading for Cindy Pawlcyn, co-owner of Mustards Grill in Yountville, Calif. "The way she wrote made the food taste good," Ms. Pawlcyn said. "I could visualize it, taste it in my mouth. It was three-dimensional."

Mr. Asher said: "She was a food scholar who made food accessible. What she did more than anyone is remind us that we are what we eat." Mendocino Fish Stew (Adapted from Margaret Fox) Total time: 1 hour 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 small red onions, peeled and chopped fine 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped fine 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 1 piece lemon rind, 2 inches long 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads 1 pound new potatoes, scrubbed 2 cups strained unsalted tomato puree 3 pasilla or poblano peppers, seeded, deveined and chopped 1/2 cup jalapeno stuffed olives (or 1/2 cup pitted green olives and 1 small jalapeno pepper, seeded, deveined and chopped fine) 2 1/2 teaspoons fresh oregano leaves, chopped fine 1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste 1 1/2 pounds fresh cod, cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks 4 fresh basil leaves, cut into thin strips.

1. Warm the olive oil in a heavy casserole or saucepan. Add the onions and cook over low heat until soft, about 10 minutes, stirring often. Add garlic and cook 5 minutes more.

2. Add the white wine, lemon rind and saffron. Increase heat to medium and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the wine reduces to 1/4 cup. In another pot, boil potatoes until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain, set aside until cool and quarter.

3. Add the tomato puree, peppers, olives and oregano to the wine mixture. Simmer 5 minutes more. Remove the lemon rind, season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the cod, cover and simmer gently until fish is cooked through, about 3 minutes. Divide the potatoes among 4 bowls. Ladle fish stew over potatoes, garnish with basil and serve immediately.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition analysis per serving: 459 calories, 12 grams fat, 74 milligrams cholesterol, 981 milligrams sodium, 36 grams protein, 44 grams carbohydrate. Spiced Rice Salad (Adapted from Joyce Goldstein) Total time: 30 minutes 1 1/2 cups basmati rice 1 2- to 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and bruised 2 3/4 cups cold water 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seed 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1 medium shallot, peeled and chopped fine 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 cup currants or black raisins, plumped in hot water and drained 4 fresh ripe apricots, quartered, or 8 dried, plumped in hot water and drained 1/3 cup toasted sliced almonds.

1. Combine rice, ginger and water in a large, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until tender, but not soft, about 15 minutes. Drain, discard the ginger and transfer the rice to a large glass or ceramic bowl.

2. Season rice with salt, pepper, nutmeg and coriander. Add lemon juice, shallot and olive oil; toss to combine. Stir in currants and apricots. Divide among 4 bowls, garnish with toasted almonds and serve.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition analysis per serving: 448 calories, 13 grams fat, 0 cholesterol, 274 milligrams sodium, 8 grams protein, 78 grams carbohydrate. Grilled Eggplant Steaks With Peperonata (Adapted from Nora Pouillon) Total time: 1 hour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 large eggplant, about 1 pound, cut into 4 equal slices lengthwise 1 onion, peeled and chopped fine 4 large red bell peppers, seeded, deveined and cut into thin strips 4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, cored and roughly chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped fine 2 teaspoons fresh rosemary leaves, chopped fine 1 teaspoon fresh oregano leaves, chopped fine 4 sprigs fresh thyme.

1. Preheat grill or broiler. Combine 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a glass or ceramic bowl. Whisk in the balsamic vinegar. Brush both sides of the eggplant with the vinaigrette. Slowly grill or broil the eggplant until tender, about 5 minutes per side. Set aside.

2. Heat remaining olive oil in a large saute pan. Add onion and cook over medium-low heat until soft, about 10 minutes. Add peppers, cover and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, oregano and remaining salt and pepper. Cook until mixture thickens slightly, 15 to 20 more minutes.

3. Divide the eggplant slices among 4 plates. Spoon equal amounts of peperonata on top of the eggplant. Garnish with fresh thyme.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition analysis per serving: 189 calories, 11 grams fat, 0 cholesterol, 223 milligrams sodium, 3 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrate. Warm Plums With Cinnamon Toast and Red Plum Sorbet (Adapted from Anne Rosenzweig) Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus freezing For the sorbet: 3/4 pound ripe red plums, pitted and chopped 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons water 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice For the plums and cinnamon toast: 6 large plums, underripe, halved and pitted 1/2 cup sugar 1/3 cup water 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 4 large slices white bread, toasted, crusts removed 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened.

1. Make the sorbet: Combine chopped plums and 2 tablespoons of the water in a heavy saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat until soft, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth, set aside.

2. Place the remaining water and sugar in a clean saucepan and boil for 4 minutes. Combine plum puree, sugar syrup, vanilla extract and lemon juice in a glass or ceramic bowl. Refrigerate until chilled. Pour the mixture into an ice-cream maker and proceed according to manufacturer's directions.

3. Prepare the plums: preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the halved plums, cut side up, in an earthenware dish or heavy skillet. Sprinkle with the sugar and water, and dust with 1/2 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Bake until tender, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven and keep warm.

4. Meanwhile, make the cinnamon toast. Preheat the broiler. Place the toast on a baking sheet. Spread with butter and dust with the remaining cinnamon. Broil just until the butter starts to bubble, about 2 minutes. Remove and set aside.

5. To assemble the dessert, arrange 3 plum halves like flower petals on each of four dessert plates. Place a small scoop of sorbet in the middle, drizzle with a spoonful of the plum juices and serve with cinnamon toast.

Yield: 4 servings.

Nutrition analysis per serving: 403 calories, 8 grams fat, 17 milligrams cholesterol, 118 milligrams sodium, 4 grams protein, 85 grams carbohydrate.

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section C, Page 3 of the National edition with the headline: Eating Well. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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