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WHAT'S DOING IN; Hong Kong

WHAT'S DOING IN;
Hong Kong
Credit...The New York Times Archives
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December 18, 1994, Section 5, Page 10Buy Reprints
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Hong Kong's culture may be one of the world's most ancient and venerated, but the British colony usually prefers to live very much in the present. These days, its no-nonsense dynamism and entrepreneurship are more intense than ever, as it reacts to the confluence of two fever-pitch forces. On one hand, anxiety is high over Hong Kong's impending return to Chinese control at midnight on June 30, 1997. On the other, the territory is thriving as the entry point for droves of international business people who want a piece of the booming Chinese mainland.

Characteristically, Hong Kong's six million people are responding to these dual pressures with great energy and a close eye on the bottom line. Construction is everywhere. Perfectly fine buildings are unhesitatingly torn down to make way for more profitable office towers. Stretches of the stunning harbor are being reclaimed to create land for still more building. And neither the din of a jackhammer nor a ride on a subway can keep dealmakers off their cellular telephones.

In such an environment, it seems fitting that the traditional New Year's greeting is, in Cantonese, "Kung Hei Fat Choy" -- which means "Wishing You Success and Prosperity." Just as practical and unsentimental is the traditional New Year's gift to young people: lai see, crisp new bills and shiny coins in red envelopes embossed with gold characters.

And yet, the Lunar New Year, the most important festival in the Chinese calendar, also brings out aspects of Hong Kong that sometimes seem buried beneath its dense and lively commercial surface. Tradition reigns, businesses close in favor of family gatherings, and the city is resplendent with decorations.

The coming year -- the Year of the Pig -- begins on Jan. 31, 1995. As is the case each year, the first three days of the new year will be public holidays. Those days are as quiet as it gets in Hong Kong, but the weeks before and afterward are especially festive. Indeed, because Hong Kong also zealously celebrates Christmas and the Jan. 1 New Year, December and January are full of festivities. And though winter in Hong Kong can be fairly chilly, it's generally more hospitable weather than the hot, humid summers.

Note: As of Jan. 1, all Hong Kong telephone numbers will have eight digits. Except as noted, preface all numbers listed here with a 2 beginning on that date. The country code for Hong Kong is 852.Events

The earliest traditional festival of the season is the Zigong Lantern Festival, through Jan. 2 at Sha Tin Central Park in the mainland New Territories. (The colony has three major sections: Hong Kong Island; Kowloon, across Hong Kong Harbor on the tip of the Chinese mainland; and the New Territories, which includes mainland territory beyond Kowloon, and a number of outlying islands.) The festival will showcase more than 400 lanterns made by artists from Zigong, China's Lantern City. Admission is free; the park is accessible by the Mass Transit Railway, Hong Kong's subway.

A particularly colorful seasonal tradition is the lion dance, with its bright costumes and noisy performances intended to scare off evil spirits and bring good luck. Hong Kong's fourth annual Lion Dance Festival, from Jan. 8 to 22, will feature competitions among 20 troupes from Hong Kong and elsewhere. The opening ceremony and carnival Jan. 8 is 1 to 5 P.M. in Kowloon Park. The competitions, scheduled for Jan. 21 and 22, will be at Hong Kong Coliseum in Kowloon, with admission from about $2.60 to $5.20 (computed at a rate of 7.7 Hong Kong dollars to the U.S. dollar). Throughout the festival, roving lion dancers will perform around Hong Kong, and residents and visitors alike can sign up for lion-dancing classes. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association at 807-6177.

Highly recommended for those traveling with children in Hong Kong this winter (and a pleasant excursion even for those who aren't) is Ocean Park. The 215-acre site on the south side of Hong Kong island is a combination theme park and oceanarium. It also features a long cable-car ride with spectacular views. For the first time, Ocean Park has planned special Lunar New Year programs. From Jan. 31 to Feb. 12, a Chinese God of Wealth will bless visitors and give them lai see packets filled with chocolate coins, and there will be a variety of entertainment -- from jugglers to Peking Opera street shows, from clowns to a Dragon Dance Parade. Ocean Park is open daily 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. Admission is about $16.80; children 3 to 11, $8.40. Information: 555-3554.

Farther off the traditional path will be the Fringe Festival, Jan. 6 to 28, sponsored by the Fringe Club in Hong Kong. The dance, music and drama performances and various exhibitions will be in keeping with the Fringe Club's mission of showcasing talents that are new or offbeat. Events will be at the Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Road, and at various other places. Call the Fringe Club at 521-7251.Sightseeing

Hong Kong's commercial buildings and hotels, particularly those along the harbor, spare no expense (and no electricity) in their holiday light displays. Huge designs -- including Santas, bells and holly -- light up the town for weeks.

The predominant Lunar New Year's decorations are on the gentler side, as vast quantities of "good luck" flowers and trees appear around town. Peach blossoms by the truckload grace hotels and offices. Vendors -- especially in Victoria Park, at Causeway Bay -- sell narcissus, peonies and pussywillows, as well as miniature orange and kumquat trees.

For particularly good views of the lights, stroll near the Star Ferry terminal on either side of the harbor. The ferry ride offers another vantage point. And in a town once famous for its bargains, this is one of the few that remains: about 20 cents for adults, 13 cents for children.

Indeed, although Hong Kong has in many respects become a very expensive city, it's still inexpensive -- and generally easy -- to see the place. Public buses and so-called mini-buses go almost anywhere; fares vary with the distance, but are usually under $1. The Mass Transit Railway is efficient, clean and safe; fares range from about 45 cents to about $1.30. For travel into the New Territories, the Kowloon-Canton Railway charges from 40 cents to $1. The crowded upper deck of the tram on Hong Kong Island between Western Market and Shau Kei Wan offers a real sense of the heart of Hong Kong life -- and the fare is only about 15 cents.

Perhaps the best way to get a feeling for Hong Kong, though, is to walk. For all the din and density, it's an extremely walkable place. On Hong Kong Island, for example, plunge into the streets of Central, Wanchai or Causeway Bay. You may not be able to hold a conversation for all the street noise, but you'll be head-to-head with Hong Kong's energy and variety. Some walks take visitors away from the hubbub. Two fine paved paths on Hong Kong Island -- Bowen Path and Black's Link -- provide serenity, exercise and great views of city and sea. Views from Bowen Path, which is about 2.5 miles long, are mostly to the north; from Black's Link, which is slightly shorter but hillier, they're mostly to the south. Both walks are accessible by taxi or bus. For information, call the Government's Country Parks Division at 733-2132; you can also obtain very useful guides from the Hong Kong Tourist Association.Where to Stay

Hong Kong has a vast number of hotels, many of them excellent, virtually all of them more expensive than in even the recent past.

The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong, 894-8888, fax 895-6459, is a big hotel -- 897 rooms -- but it manages not to overwhelm. It's near lots of shopping and popular Victoria Park, and its Italian restaurant (Cammino) and its coffee shop are local favorites. Double rooms, $208 to $273.

Budget: Both of these are operated by the Y.M.C.A.

The Salisbury Y.M.C.A. of Hong Kong, 41 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 369-2211, fax 739-9315, is a longtime magnet for value-concious Hong Kong visitors. It has 366 rooms, an array of Y.M.C.A. services, some touches of charm -- and a location that tonier places would kill for. Reservations far in advance are a must. Double rooms cost $109 to $136.

The 320 rooms at Harbour View International House, 4 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong, 802-0111, fax 802-9063, may not be the most spacious in town, but the hotel is clean, efficient, excellently situated -- and appropriately named. Double rooms cost $122 to $136.

Luxury: Situated next to glitzy Pacific Place mall and lovely Hong Kong Park, the plush 565-room Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hong Kong, 877-3838, fax 521-8742, has been around only a few years but earns more praise all the time. Double rooms are $325 to $435.

The Regent, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 721-1211, fax 739-4546, is the sleekly elegant place to stay on the Kowloon side. It has 602 rooms, a commanding harbor view, and restaurants that have won lavish international acclaim. Double rooms are $260 to $403.Where to Eat

Of the many things that have made Hong Kong famous, food ranks high.

Victoria City Seafood Restaurant, 2d Floor, Sun Hung Kai Center, 30 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong; 827-9938. Possibly the best place for dim sum, at lunch only. Other specialties available for lunch and dinner include fried prawns with salt and diced beef with garlic. Dinner for two, about $80 to $120; considerably more with items like shark's fin.

Hunan Garden, Third Floor, The Forum, Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong; 868-2880. A lovely restaurant with gracious service. Fortune Hunan ham, chili fried chicken, scallop dishes. Dinner for two costs about $110 to $120.

Spring Deer, First Floor, 42 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; 723-3673. Specializes in Beijing dishes, like Peking duck and beggar's chicken; good prawns. A bustling place and a good value. Dinner for two costs about $55 to $65.

Yaik Sang, Ground Floor, 456 Lockhart Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; 891-0730. An old-fashioned and friendly Cantonese restaurant. Good choices include roast pressed duck, salt-and-pepper prawns, lettuce and minced pigeon. Dinner for two costs about $50 to $60.

Seibu Food Hall, Lower Ground Level 1, Seibu Department Store, The Mall, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong. Here you will find a series of counters selling a variety of foods -- Chinese, Japanese, excellent sandwiches, many desserts. The system requires placing your order, going to a cashier and then returning for your food. But you can have a meal for about $10. There are also a Japanese restaurant (Ichizen) and a deli (Kern's), which are more expensive but still reasonable.

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section 5, Page 10 of the National edition with the headline: WHAT'S DOING IN; Hong Kong. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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