In search of the transcendent taqueria / Our critic puts 85 beloved Bay Area burrito joints to the test

Call it "trial by taqueria."

I was six weeks into my new job as a staff writer for The Chronicle's Food section when my editor, with a glint in his eyes, proposed an assignment: Go out and, as an extension of this year's Bargain Bites (look for it this Sunday in the Chronicle Magazine), explore the Bay Area's taqueria scene. Visit as many as you can, he urged.

[Podcast: Bill Addision talks about his search for the best taqueria in the Bay Area.]

Sure, I was game. I'd moved to town just three days before I started work. Tackling taquerias would be a good way to learn the region, right? Burritos are nationally known as the soul food of San Francisco, but how many burrito joints could there possibly be?

It took only a perfunctory Internet search to puncture my naiveté. The Bay Area has hundreds of taquerias.

I made it to 85 in 10 weeks.

Taquerias are an indelible part of the Bay Area's food culture. They provide their customers -- blue- and white-collar workers, college students, families of all backgrounds -- with the region's indigenous fast food. They're a near-ubiquitous presence in almost every area, neighborhood and town.

And, whoa, do they encourage fierce loyalty and ferocious debate. The focal point of that debate, though, is centered on the foil-wrapped, barrel-shaped burrito.

"It's basically the No. 2 plate at a Mexican restaurant rolled into a flour tortilla," quips Jonathan Gold, food critic at L.A. Weekly and a former restaurant critic for Gourmet magazine. "But you wouldn't believe how many letters I get from readers asking where to find San Francisco-style burritos in L.A."

Burrito disciples generally acknowledge El Faro in San Francisco's Mission District as serving the first "super burrito" in 1961. The simple yet genre-defying addition of rice, sour cream and guacamole to the basic meat, bean and cheese format sparked demand for a new breed of bet-you-can't-finish-it sustenance.

The "Cylindrical God" has since become a worshiped local art form. Two Web sites started in the last year alone -- Burritoeater.com and Burritophile.com -- devote themselves to taquerias' Topic A.

Steve Ells, founder and CEO of Chipotle Mexican Grill, was so inspired by taquerias while working as a line cook at San Francisco's legendary Stars restaurant that he opened his own variation on a burrito joint in Denver in 1993. Today, the chain has more than 530 locations nationwide.

There's no place like home

But local burrito fans are quick to point out that nothing beats a hometown construct.

"We're spoiled," says Dan Johnson, a founding editor of Burritophile.com, which encourages users to post their own taqueria reviews. "Your average burrito in San Francisco would be something that in any other city would knock your socks off."

"And they're cheap," adds Cate Czerwinski, another Burritophile editor. "You don't hear as much discussion about who serves the best foie gras because not as many people can afford it."

Quesadillas, flautas, enchiladas, tortas and tamales are all standard taqueria dishes. But I noticed immediately when I started this quest (which excluded taco trucks, a subject unto themselves) that although the actual physicality of taquerias varies enormously, their kitchens are designed to expedite two menu items: burritos and tacos.

The meat choices are essentially the same: carnitas (braised, well-browned pork); carne asada (grilled steak); al pastor (barbecued beef or pork) and chicken -- stewed, roasted or grilled.

The service is mostly the same, too: unapologetically speedy.

To cut the salty richness of the food, the beverages of choice include horchata -- the milky sweet, cinnamon-scented rice drink -- and juicy agua frescas made with in-season fruits. I came to savor the ephemeral moment when the cashier would slowly, carefully ladle my tamarindo or watermelon agua fresca from a barrel-shaped plastic jar before shooing me on my way.

Despite these apparent similarities, however, the food at one place is never quite the same as at another.

Details count

The taste of a burrito can vary based on the texture of the meat, the seasonings in the rice, and how precisely the tortilla is folded around the ingredients, among other things.

La Cumbre in the Mission, for instance, chops an actual piece of steak for its carne asada burritos and tacos. That results in an entirely different -- and, in my opinion, notably superior -- eating experience than scooping pre-cooked meat from a steam table, as many taquerias do.

Soft tacos, depending on a taqueria's idiosyncrasies, also morph in unexpected ways. There's no denying the appeal of Taqueria Vallarta's straightforward rendition of meat, salsa, onion and cilantro, but sometimes an unexpected twist -- like how Taqueria La Morena in South San Francisco adds both pico de gallo and fiery hot sauce to its bean-laced tacos -- can prove unexpectedly satisfying.

As for crispy tacos? Well, I realized how hard it is to be critical when your kisser's full of crunchy fried tortilla and gobs of guacamole.

Using your eyes and nose is the ideal way to scout out a neighborhood's most promising taquerias. El Farolito was one of the most oft-mentioned spots in the dozens of e-mails that The Chronicle received after we asked readers to tell us about their favorite taquerias. Colleagues and the online sites I scoured for suggestions also gave it high marks.

But it was the line of eager customers outside El Farolito -- and the smoky smells wafting out -- that best tipped me off to the probability of a fine burrito in my future.

Beware empty taquerias. They are usually vacant for a reason.

For every one burrito like El Farolito's that sent gluttonous thrills down my spine, I ate 10 that made me want to jog to the nearest sushi bar and scrap the whole project. They may all look the same in their silver foil, but underneath the wrapping each burrito is a microcosm of individuality. (For my judging criteria, see sidebar, next page.)

And a surprising number of things can desecrate a cylindrical god: Stale rice. Un-melted cheese. Under-salted beans. An over-steamed or blatantly unheated tortilla.

Old, gray meat that had lingered on the steam table, though, was the most common sacrilege. Carnitas and carne asada shouldn't simply taste like vague, high-on-the-food chain protein. They should have a distinctive meaty robustness that helps them stand out from the other ingredients.

Yet quality ingredients alone don't necessarily translate to a good burrito. Construction and proportion are just as essential.

Bay Area-style burritos evolve as you eat them. One bite may be full of guacamole and rice, but the next might include a hunk of pork with an extra nip of jalapeno, the next a slick of melty cheese. The more you eat, the gushier it gets.

Still, the first mouthful of a burrito reveals more than you might expect. Is it nothing but tortilla or rice? Then the ingredients probably haven't been distributed evenly. Cold spots -- those unappetizing patches that yield nothing but blobs of sour cream -- may lurk.

Every burrito enthusiast develops a list of adamant aversions, and mine is to lettuce. I know others will disagree, but I think lettuceturns a burrito's innards into a swampy mush. "Sin lechuga, por favor" has become my most oft-used Spanish phrase.

The ever-growing taco

Tacos, likewise, have taken some divergent local twists. What was originally a two- or three-bite nosh has blossomed at some taquerias into full-blown knife-and-fork food.

Beans are the most common addition to the basic meat-on-corn-tortilla premise, although I encountered a few overzealous places that slathered on rice, cheese and -- grrr -- lettuce to a regular taco.

Happily, many taquerias also prepare tacos much closer to their Mexican roots -- two small corn tortillas topped with a judicious handful of meat anointed with a splash of salsa, and perhaps chopped onion and cilantro. A bracing squeeze of lime at the table is all they need.

Those few places that did have me swiveling my head between bites of burrito and taco -- burbling murmurs of astonishment and appreciation -- automatically made it into my top 20 (see chart, at right).

Yet even when I did uncover these dual pleasures, I found an almost unvarying trend: Among taquerias with two or more locations -- I counted at least 25 such ventures -- one restaurant makes markedly better food than its siblings.

The recently renovated Half Moon Bay location of Tres Amigos, for example, cranks out suave carnitas and saucy chile verde. Yet, a later visit to its San Mateo branch revealed strangely minced carne asada and virtual mud puddles of cold spots in the burritos.

Sometimes busy-ness -- or the lack thereof -- plays a factor. I gladly braved the masses for the astutely crafted tacos at Taqueria San Jose's cowboy-ish Marin location. But the tepid chow at its overly sedate Mission spot wouldn't warrant a return visit.

Cultural phenomenon

All this running around helped me observe how deeply the taqueria culture is embraced by the entire Bay Area.

El Farolito in San Francisco might be construed as a hipster hangout, while Cactus Taqueria in Oakland gets viewed as a family restaurant destination. But the food they serve has the same fundamental soul.

The burrito's universal appeal, it turns out, unites the community in unspoken ways. And the fun of glimpsing all these different folks enjoying burritos and tacos side by side eventually became its own motivation for ferreting out the region's best taquerias.

It also taught me that there isn't any predictable rhyme or reason for where an outstanding taqueria might be uncovered.

The Holy Grail

I found my Holy Grail one night late in my search. My quest was winding down, and I'd hit most of the must-try spots by then. Or so I thought -- until I stumbled across Sancho's in Redwood City.

I ordered my usual: A carnitas super burrito and two tacos -- one carne asada, one al pastor. When my food was up, I plunked down at the table and dug in.

And kept digging in.

It was my fantasy burrito. Everything about this creation tasted eloquent. The tortilla was crisp; the carnitas fell apart in leafy chunks; the refried beans melded with the cheese and guacamole; the salsa had a smoky, concentrated taste.

And the tacos were tiny parcels featuring succulent chopped meat -- and no beans.

I had a similar end-of-the-trek epiphany at Taqueria Reina's in San Francisco's South of Market neighborhood, owned in part by the people who run Taqueria Cancun. Not only did the thoroughly amalgamated carnitas burrito burst in all the right ways, but the cabeza (head) taco steered clear of the fattiness that often characterizes that cut of meat.

On the whole, transcendent tacos like those made at Sancho's and Reina's proved harder to find than deftly made burritos -- that is, until I discovered the wonder of crispy tacos. Cactus' taco, made with Niman Ranch meats, put me in an ecstatic trance.

What marvels of engineering crispy tacos are: A pliant outer tortilla surrounds a second, crispy deep-fried tortilla that heats the cheese into oozing lava. Grace notes of guac and sour cream mingle with the piquant meat.

It's a chain reaction of decadence.

A crusade to continue my crispy taco adventures -- after an underwhelming meal at Nick's Crispy Tacos near Russian Hill -- led me to the hallowed and heavily debated doors of La Taqueria in the Mission. It's famous for its conspicuous absence of rice -- a direct revolt against Bay Area dictums.

At last, La Taqueria

I have no beef with La Taqueria's meat-dominant burritos and tacos, except perhaps for the relatively steep prices. Cheese, guacamole and sour cream are all extra, so two fully loaded crispy tacos and a small tamarindo agua fresca cost $13.24. In the realm of taquerias, that's a sizable chunk of change.

Yet the adoration this place elicits can't be easily discounted.

"Man, there's a whole lot of love going on in this burrito," said a guy sitting behind me into his cell phone.

Crunching on my tacos, I knew what he was feeling. The finest of these unpretentious foods can evoke a brimming sense of well-being. I understand now why taquerias inspire so much loyalty.

In the past week, as I completed this project, everyone I know was saying to me, "I bet you'll be happy to never eat a burrito again in your whole life!"

Truth is, my editor has created a monster -- or, more accurately, a Pavlov's dog. Every time someone mentions burritos or tacos, I salivate on cue. And start contemplating my next taqueria destination.

SELECTED HIGHLIGHTS ALONG THE WAY

Taquerias, I quickly discovered on this trek, are worlds onto themselves. Here are some highlights:

First love. During my inaugural week of the hunt, I watched a mountain range of carne asada slowly sizzling on the grill through the window at El Farolito on Mission Street. The restaurant may as well have installed a neon lit sign on its facade a la Krispy Kreme: Hot Burritos Now. I quickly joined the line out the door.

Observing the cooks and savoring the results of their labors helped me set benchmarks for the weeks of eating ahead.

The staffers started a burrito by griddling its tortilla on both sides -- a good sign -- but didn't put the cheese on the tortilla while was it still on the griddle. I hoped the whole package would ultimately be hot enough to melt the cheese inside.

The late-night crowd didn't mislead: El Farolito's burrito delivered. My initial nibble included husky, well-seasoned steak and a silken sliver of avocado -- not the thin guacamole that most taquerias make.

The tortilla had a flaky crispness, and I could feel through the aluminum sheath that the burrito was hot throughout.

As I ate my vertical meal, I found that -- hallelujah -- the shreds of cheese had indeed melted. Shiny wads of foil littered the tabletop by the time I chomped this baby down to its floury, creamy nub.

Stand-up tacos. One night, a taqueria lead in South San Francisco proved a dead end, so a friend and I wound up in the Mission, aimlessly wandering to see what we could suss out. That's when I came upon the nighttime taco stand that Taqueria Vallarta sets up in front of its door.

Meats -- including choice offerings such as sesos (beef brains), lengua (beef tongue) and cabeza (beef head meat, usually cheek) -- were arranged around a circular grill. The cook tosses the diminutive tortillas on the grill, dabs a little meat fat on them and then turns the tortillas over to heat on the other side. He layers slices of translucent cooked onion with the meat, adds salsa and passes them to you on a paper plate. You can go eat them inside, or amble down the street eating your tidy, savory bundles.

Vallarta also makes wonderful gushy burritos accentuated by robust carnitas. That's an anomaly -- I found most taquerias either do either burritos or tacos well, but rarely both with equal finesse.

Far-flung favorite. "Where?" my San Francisco friends demanded when they inquired after my favorite taqueria find.

"Sancho's. In Redwood City," I'd repeat confidently. Then I'd tell them the taqueria's story.

As often happens in any facet of the restaurant industry, Adam Torres took a circuitous path before he became Sancho's chef and owner.

"I owned a taqueria in Mountain View in 1998 during the dot-com boom," says Torres. "But I didn't really know much about food. Someone offered me a pretty penny to buy it, so I took them up on the offer."

Torres used the money to send himself to the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. His first job out of school was working as a line cook at Boulevard, followed by a stint at the Village Pub in Woodside.

But he felt he was missing something, so he moved back to Redwood City and, with financial help from his father, opened Sancho's.

"Now I know what's going on in the kitchen," Torres says. "I personally watch over the food, taste everything every day, and show my staff what makes food taste good."

A Chipotle off the block. There's some outspoken dissent about Chipotle Mexican Grill, the national chain with only one San Francisco location and a handful of others in the Bay Area. Detractors say they don't want to eat "corporate burritos and tacos" from a company owned by McDonald's.

Well, I happen to like grabbing lunch at Chipotle. I just don't approach it like I'm eating at a taqueria.

I order Chipotle's "burrito bol." It starts with a bed of cilantro-lime rice. I ask for toppings of pinto beans, salsa verde, cheese, a modest slick of sour cream, a hefty dose of guacamole, and half carnitas-half beef barbacoa, both of which are made with Niman Ranch meats. Then I douse it all with lime and Tabasco.

It's a satisfying collision of Mexican-themed flavors.

McDonald's is divesting its interest in Chipotle, according to Chipotle spokeman Chris Arnold. The company plans to be operating independently by the end of October. Will the move curry favor among the Bay Area's independent-minded diners?

Thankful mouthfuls. Over the course of my quest, a few unusual dishes stood out. Taqueria Express in the Tenderloin serves lamb burritos and tacos, which lend a pleasantly gamy twist to the flavor mix. Cate Czerwinski of Burritophile.com recommended a plantain burrito at Cuco's in the Lower Haight that redefined euphoric carb loading.

But my most baffling burrito was at Pancho's in Laurel Heights.

Its "special carnitas burrito" included juicy pork that melded with refried beans to form a gravy-like sauce inside the tortilla wrapper. The rice, I was certain, had been flavored with celery seed. In the context, the pork could have been mistaken for dark meat poultry. Why was the flavor so strange and familiar at once?

Then it came to me: It tasted like Thanksgiving turkey and stuffing.

Was it hallucinatory palate-fatigue after a full day of taqueria sampling? I can't say. But I've grown so fond of the idea of a Thanksgiving burrito that I'm reluctant to return to Pancho's to either confirm or contradict my experience.

RATING THE TAQUERIAS

In order to have a fair basis for taqueria comparisons, I focused on brick-and-mortar establishments where customers ordered from the counter and staffers offered no table service beyond running plates out from the kitchen.

That eliminated the esteemed taco trucks as well as restaurants such as Picante in Berkeley that employ busboys as part of their counter/table hybrid service.

Lastly, I devised a carnivorous control group for comparison's sake: At every taqueria, I would request at minimum a super burrito with carnitas (braised, well-browned pork) and a carne asada (grilled steak) taco. From there I would eyeball the selection at each place to see what else proved intriguing.

The burrito

Tortilla: Griddled, steamed or plain? High-quality tasting?

Cheese: Melted evenly (or at all)? Added while the tortilla is steaming or on the griddle?

Beans: Soft, well seasoned? Blend nicely into the mix?

Rice: Fresh, fluffy, well seasoned?

Meat: Fresh-tasting? Correct salt? Cooked to order, reheated on grill or scooped straight from steam table?

Guacamole: Fresh and well balanced? Overly pureed?

Sour cream: Too much?

Temperature: Is the burrito hot throughout, or cold in places?

Packaging: Size? Tightly rolled? Leaking?

Evolution/gush: How do all the ingredients meld? Does the meat hold its own or disappear into the other elements? How long does it take to get to the ideal bites?

Miscellaneous: Is it the burrito spicy or mild? Quality of salsa? Salsa bar? Lettuce? Wrapped in foil, or served au naturel on a plate?

Overall satisfaction: Would I eat this burrito again?

The taco

Tortillas: Size? Soft or crispy? Griddled or steamed first?

Meat: Cooked to order, reheated on grill, or scooped straight from steam table? Meat chopped in steak-y hunks or shreds?

Toppings: Salsa (how much? overpowering?). Onion and/or cilantro?

Extras: Do beans, cheese or guacamole come automatically with the regular taco? Cost?

Ease of eating: Can you pick this taco up and eat it, or is it so over-piled it is knife-and-fork food?

Overall satisfaction: Would I eat this taco again?

-- Bill Addison

CHART:

The top 20 taquerias

Here are critic Bill Addison's 20 favorites from his 85-taqueria tour of the Bay Area, listed in alphabetical order.

Cactus Taqueria

5642 College Ave. (at Shafter), Oakland; (510) 658-6180

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $5.95, Regular taco: $3.95, Crispy taco: $2.60

DESCRIPTION: Vivaciously bright, kid-friendly and committed to serving high-quality meats, this popular East Bay staple crafts definitive, deliriously oozy crispy tacos. Steady business ensures burrito fillings stay fresh.

Cancun Taqueria

2134 Allston Way (at Shattuck), Berkeley; (510) 549-0964

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $7.25,Regular taco: $3.75,Crispy taco: $3.95

DESCRIPTION: Line cooks put real muscle into thwacking ingredients onto as-yet-folded burritos. Burritos and tacos are serviceable, but the outrageous salsa bar -- including the mouth-murdering "Infierno -- XX hot" version -- elevates the experience.

El Burrito Express

1812 Divisadero St. (at Bush), S.F. (415) 776-4246

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $5.25, Regular taco: $2.65, Crispy taco: $1.75

DESCRIPTION: Decorative sombreros and blue and red sponge-painted walls imbue a sweet, kitschy warmth. Try the not-too-saucy green chile burrito that includes plush chunks of avocado. Green salsa has a distinct, roasted peppery snap.

El Farolito

2779 Mission St. (at 24th St.), S.F. (415) 641-0758

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $4.95, Regular taco: $1.95

DESCRIPTION: When piles of smoky meat can be seen sizzling on the grill, join the late-night hipsters in line at this stalwart Mission standby. Be sure to douse the carne asada burrito with silky avocado-tomatillo salsa.

El Metate

2406 Bryant St. (at 22nd Street), S.F.; (415) 641-7209

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $5.25, Regular taco: $2

DESCRIPTION: A relative newcomer to the Mission taqueria scene, the kitchen here cranks out handsome carnitas -- chunky, crisp on the edge, rich and unctuous in the center. Burritos are a manageable size. Good, frothy horchata.

La Cumbre

515 Valencia (at 16th Street), S.F.(415) 863-8205

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $6.50, Regular taco: $2.50

DESCRIPTION: A Mission staple that has served burritos and tacos since the '60s, its steak-y carne asada lives up to the legend. Intriguing people-watching in the funky dining room.

La Fonda

712 Irving (near Eighth Avenue), S.F.; (415) 681-9205

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $6.20, Regular taco: $2.30

DESCRIPTION: Friendly counter staff complements this bright orange taqueria with an upstairs eating area. Come for tacos made with cochinita pibil -- pork shoulder roasted with achiote in banana leaves.

La Luna Market and Taqueria

1153 Rutherford Road (near Hwy. 29), Rutherford; (707) 967-3497

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $6.25, Regular taco: $1.75

DESCRIPTION: The taqueria counter is located in the back of this small Napa grocery. Camp out at the picnic tables outside and savor carne asada or cabeza tacos, or a carnitas burrito constructed with exceptional care.

La Taqueria

2889 Mission (at 25th Street), S.F.(415) 285-7117

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $7.05, Regular taco: $3.50, Crispy taco: $3.50

DESCRIPTION: Rice-less burritos? Extra charges that can raise taco prices to almost $5? This is the city's favorite taqueria to lock horns over. Ask for the crispy tacos, which aren't listed on the menu, and count on a gutsy -- and, yes, debate-worthy -- burrito.

Papalote

3409 24th St. (at Valencia), S.F.(415) 970-8815

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $5.90, Regular taco: $4.49

DESCRIPTION: Fresh is the key word at Papalote. Meats are cooked to order and agua frescas taste naturally sweet from ripe fruit. Folk art and walls painted rich colors lend this place a date-night feel -- an unusual trait in taquerias.

Sancho's

3205 Oak Knoll (near Canyon Rd.), Redwood City; (650) 364-8226

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $6.55, Regular taco: $1.25

DESCRIPTION: Burritos and tacos are everything they should be at this diminutive storefront with expansion plans. Each element zings with freshness and quality. The bonus of well-made fish tacos, a rarity in the Bay Area, makes this a must-try.

Tacos El Grullense

1280 El Camino Real (at Jefferson), Redwood City; (650) 368-3737

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $5.75, Regular taco: $1.25

DESCRIPTION: Redwood City has a booming taqueria scene, but this diner-like joint stands out for serving traditional, appropriately small tacos topped with exceptionally robust meats. A balanced ingredient mix gives the meaty burritos sturdy structure.

Taqueria Cancun

2288 Mission (at 19th Street) S.F.(415) 252-9560

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $4.80, Regular taco: $2

DESCRIPTION: Mariachis are often seen meandering into this colorful Mission crowd-pleaser. Cancun doesn't serve carnitas, but lighter appetites flock here for vegetarian and roasted chicken burritos.

Taqueria El Castillito

136 Church (near 14th Street), S.F.(415) 621-3428

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $6.49, Regular taco: $2.48

DESCRIPTION: A perennial favorite of taqueria habitues, the steam table setup of the kitchen belies how astutely the cooks assemble bodacious burritos. Exemplary salsas -- dusky red and searing yet velvety green -- add considerable punch to the food.

Taqueria La Mexicana

250 Hwy. 1 (near Hwy. 92), Half Moon Bay; (650) 726-1746

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $5.99, Regular taco: $1.99

DESCRIPTION: The appeal of this scruffy place, which looks like an old 1950s hamburger stand, sneaks up on you. Super burritos, filled with guacamole and properly melted cheese, are wonderfully hot throughout.

Taqueria La Morena

307 Baden Ave. (near Linden), South S.F.; (650) 553-9707

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $4.60, Regular taco: $2

DESCRIPTION: A rollicking lunchtime business keeps the cooking focused. Tacos come with both pico de gallo and a slick of hot sauce. Choose standards like carne asada and carnitas instead of stewed meats.

Taqueria Reina's

1550 Howard (at Lafayette), S.F. (415) 431-0160

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $4.99, Regular taco: $2.20

DESCRIPTION: Affable smiles from co-owner Juan Garcia precede the skillfully cooked burritos and tacos. Juicy, smoky al pastor and tender cabeza -- beef head meat -- are the taco fillings of choice. Long-griddled tortillas impart ideal flakiness to burritos.

Taqueria San Francisco

2794 24th St. (at York Street), S.F.(415) 641-1770

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $5.75, Regular taco: $2.25

DESCRIPTION: A thumping jukebox adds life to this bare-bones spot. Strong on the basics. Try either the intense chorizo burrito or a meatless chile relleno burrito for a change in taqueria pace.

Taqueria Vallarta

3033 24th St. (near Treat), S.F.(415) 826-8116

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $4.75, Regular taco: $1.50

DESCRIPTION: The taco stand that Vallarta sets up evenings in front of its doorway provides some of the Mission's great late-night eats. Be brave and nibble on the excellent beef tongue. Burritos gush in all the right ways.

Tres Amigos

270 Hwy. 1 (near Hwy 92), Half Moon Bay; (650) 726-6080

BASE PRICE: Super burrito: $6.77, Regular taco: $1.90

DESCRIPTION: The prime location draws a rich cross-section of locals and tourists to this attractive, recently renovated taqueria. Taco tortillas have true corn flavor and pair well with pork in chile verde and al pastor. Weighty burritos can easily be shared.

San Francisco: Andale, Azteca, Chipotle, Cuco's, Dos Amigos Taqueria, El Buen Sabor, El Fadi, El Faro (Financial District, the Mission), El Mirimar, Gordo Taqueria (Inner Sunset), L'Avenida, La Salsa (Fisherman's Wharf), Luna Azul, Mariachi, Mijita, Nick's Crispy Tacos, Ocean Taqueria, Pancho's, Papalote (Western Addition), Pancho Villa Taqueria (the Mission, Embarcadero), Si Senor, Taco Loco Taqueria, Tacos Los Altos, Taqueria Cancun (Tenderloin), Taqueria El Balazo, Taqueria El Castillito (18th Street, Civic Center), Taqueria El Taco Loco, Taqueria El Toro, Taqueria Express, Taqueria La Corneta, Taqueria La Tambora, Taqueria San Jose, Taqueria White Orchid, Taqueria Zapata, Zona Rosa.

East Bay: Cactus Taqueria (Berkeley), Chipotle (Berkeley), El Farolito (Oakland), Gordo Taqueria (Berkeley), La Calaca Loca (Oakland), La Cascada (Berkeley), Ramiro and Sons (Alameda), Taqueria La Familia (Berkeley), Taqueria Las Vegas (Fremont), Taqueria Otaez (Oakland), Taqueria San Jose (Oakland).

North Bay: Burritoville (San Anselmo), La Taquiza (Napa), Mi Pueblo Taqueria #2 (Petaluma), Pancho Villa's (Fairfax), Tacos La Playita (Napa), Taqueria Mexican Grill (San Rafael), Taqueria San Jose (San Rafael).

Peninsula/South Bay: Garcia's Taqueria (Sunnyvale), Happy Taco (Half Moon Bay), La Costena (Mountain View), Pancho Villa Taqueria (San Mateo), Taqueria La Bamba (Mountain View), Taqueria Latina (Sunnyvale), Taqueria Tres Amigos (San Mateo), Taqueria Tres Hermanos (Mountain View), Tu Casa Taqueria (Menlo Park).